Staggered

[moregrip]

Looks like I’m gonna land somewhere between a static 6/4 and a 5/7drop starting with the Belltech 6/4 drop kit, so 3 inch drop spindles and 1 inch drop coil springs for my 83C 10 fleetside. I’m looking for recommendations on wheels and tires, staggered stance as meaty as possible. I know this has been discussed at nausea, but I need a fresh conversation to solidify on my thought process. Detailed specs backspace and all that kind of stuff needed. Thanks!

[moregrip]

More specifically, I'd like to run a 10" wide front wheel. Nate from PB indicated the most BS he's run is 6" on a front wheel. Over at the custom offsets website there's a guy running a 22X11 up front with 6.7" BS with 5/7 drop (link below)

I was hoping to get input from some of the guys more familiar with setups like this or similar to this?

My goal is a 17x10 honoring the 6" BS Nate described remembering the Belltech spindles add .45 inches width each side.

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wh...-accelera-iota

Any help appreciated!

[SCOTI]

More BS = contact w/steering & suspension parts sooner. To increase wiggle-room for contact, larger diameter wheels can help (like those 22's on the linked images).

17's aren't going to offer that much wiggle room so I would buy one of those backspace/wheel fitment tools before committing to anything so you can check your specific combination out.....

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wheel...9OOgYT0hrGr6CQ

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

More BS = contact w/steering & suspension parts sooner. To increase wiggle-room for contact, larger diameter wheels can help (like those 22's on the linked images).

17's aren't going to offer that much wiggle room, so I would buy one of those backspace/wheel fitment tools before committing to anything so you can check your specific combination out.....

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wheel...9OOgYT0hrGr6CQ

Thank you! I've been exchanging emails with Nate, trying to figure this out, so I'm more information-rich than when I started this post.

What I've been able to find with the 17" barrel, 4.5 - 4.75 BS definitely clears. A popular choice up front is 17x11 w/4/5" BS, but that doesn't really help me other than know it definitely clears.

I'm not opposed to clearancing some of the components if need be or running high-quality spacers, or even trimming the lip on the fenders. I guess what I'm really trying to avoid is the wheel/tire sticking out past the fender.

The area that comes into question is the steering tie rod end and the stud end of the lower ball joint sticking out a bit vs. 17" barrel. I can trim the lower ball joint stud flush to the nut and maybe even run a lower profile nut but the steering tie rod end and the location of that joint beyond some minor clearancing is the real question I think.

Unfortunately and fortunately, this particular wheel is a key element to my overall concept so I’m kinda left trying to figure it all out. I suppose if I can get the inner diameter of the wheel barrel then that tool you linked me too might come in handy; I could just set the outriggers to the diameter of the wheel barrel.

If I can get the ID of the wheel barrel, I could then mock up a belltech spindle with all the components and see where I'm at in addition to what you suggested. I have an email in to see if I can get that info; fingers crossed!

[SCOTI]

Why the 17x11 up front?
What tire size are you considering on this desired 17x11?

My old '74 was ~6" front drop & the front had 18x8's/5.25"bs/245/45-18's @ 26.7" tall (1st image). With stock a-arms & inner wheel wells it cleared things fine but would make contact w/the a-arm lip on any tight turns.

Same '74, same drop, but then w/20x8.5" Coys/5.25"bs/255/40-20's @ 28" tall tires up front would scrub the top of the inner wells @ <10mph on public roads. Same a-arm contact possibility & not drivable w/the tire height....

Your linked C10 w/the 22x11's indicated 265/40-22's (which yield 30" of tire height) & a 5" front drop...... If my 20's w/28" tall combo rubbed (with stock length Bilstein front shocks & relocated upper shock brackets for proper travel), that linked truck must not have inner wells, has modded inner wells, additional suspension mods not listed, or is not quite a 5" drop (vs. a stock height C10) to = 'no rubbing' w/an extra 3" of wheel & tire extended from the hub vs mine. Your proposed 6" of back-spacing will still extend the wheel & tire outboard @ least 2 additional inches vs my images below.

What's your combo going to be?

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Why the 17x11 up front?
What tire size are you considering on this desired 17x11?

My old '74 was ~6" front drop & the front had 18x8's/5.25"bs/245/45-18's @ 26.7" tall (1st image). With stock a-arms & inner wheel wells it cleared things fine but would make contact w/the a-arm lip on any tight turns.

Same '74, same drop, but then w/20x8.5" Coys/5.25"bs/255/40-20's @ 28" tall tires up front would scrub the top of the inner wells @ <10mph on public roads. Same a-arm contact possibility & not drivable w/the tire height....

Your linked C10 w/the 22x11's indicated 265/40-22's (which yield 30" of tire height) & a 5" front drop...... If my 20's w/28" tall combo rubbed (with stock length Bilstein front shocks & relocated upper shock brackets for proper travel), that linked truck must not have inner wells, has modded inner wells, additional suspension mods not listed, or is not quite a 5" drop (vs. a stock height C10) to = 'no rubbing' w/an extra 3" of wheel & tire extended from the hub vs mine. Your proposed 6" of back-spacing will still extend the wheel & tire outboard @ least 2 additional inches vs my images below.

What's your combo going to be?

My combo is going to be 17x10 up front and 17x11 out back (in whatever combination of parts and/or BS'ing that works for those sizes). Any chance you can give me some reference of clearances to the fender lips on your setups--something 2 fingers clearance or similar?

It seems like it's a bit of a fine line between fitting the wheels in the wheel wells and avoiding suspension/steering components, especially with a 17" wheel? As you pointed out, larger diameter wheels seem to solve a few things.

I do appreciate you taking the time to help!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

My combo is going to be 17x10 up front and 17x11 out back (in whatever combination of parts and/or BS'ing that works for those sizes). Any chance you can give me some reference of clearances to the fender lips on your setups--something 2 fingers clearance or similar?

It seems like it's a bit of a fine line between fitting the wheels in the wheel wells and avoiding suspension/steering components, especially with a 17" wheel? As you pointed out, larger diameter wheels seem to solve a few things.

I do appreciate you taking the time to help!

Tell me the tire sizes that you're planning.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Tell me the tire sizes that you're planning.

I have two sets I've been considering, I think I prefer the 27" tall tires.

305/45R-17 27.8"
255/50R-17 27.1"

285/40R-17 26"
255/45R-17 26.1"

[SCOTI]

The taller option would be the minimum I'd pursue. Squarebody's have large enough wheel openings that things look odd with shorter combo's.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The taller option would be the minimum I'd pursue. Squarebody's have large enough wheel openings that things look odd with shorter combo's.

Thanks, appreciate the pics and advice. It's always kinda tough for me to estimate fender room and distances from pics but at least I can make some reasonable associations.

I'm still waiting to hear back on the ID of the barrel but I can probably get close with a conservative guesstimation.

Onward!

[SCOTI]

You might be able to do 6" of back space but I feel you'd need high clearance lower control arms to do it w/minimal fuss (to minimize contact @ the inside edge). I feel you could mod some stock lower control arms to get close but will still have limits (because of the lower control arms shape). The more creative & experienced w/fab work you are, the more clearance there is to be gained.

Contact (amount of contact) with the fender lip on the outer edge will be dependent on amount of actual physical drop & tire height w/the combo.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You might be able to do 6" of back space but I feel you'd need high clearance lower control arms to do it w/minimal fuss (to minimize contact @ the inside edge). I feel you could mod some stock lower control arms to get close but will still have limits (because of the lower control arms shape). The more creative & experienced w/fab work you are, the more clearance there is to be gained.

Contact (amount of contact) with the fender lip on the outer edge will be dependent on amount of actual physical drop & tire height w/the combo.

Worst case, I could tack weld some pieces and take them to a better welder/fab shop here in town.

If you don't mind taking a measurement, on your Coy front wheel setup, what is the distance form the outer edge of the tire or wheel (whichever is greater) to the outer edge of the fender minus the trim. Or including the trim if you have an idea of how much extra in increases that measurement.

If not, no worries.

I'm trying to account for as many variables as I can but it's becoming more obvious to me that some of this is going to have to be figured out on the fly!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

Worst case, I could tack weld some pieces and take them to a better welder/fab shop here in town.

If you don't mind taking a measurement, on your Coy front wheel setup, what is the distance form the outer edge of the tire or wheel (whichever is greater) to the outer edge of the fender minus the trim. Or including the trim if you have an idea of how much extra in increases that measurement.

If not, no worries.

I'm trying to account for as many variables as I can but it's becoming more obvious to me that some of this is going to have to be figured out on the fly!

Truck has been gone from my ownership 15+ years. It's a big wheeled Pro-Street build now.

One thing to seriously consider is some aftermarket control arms. A set of 1" narrowed/forward arms helps your wheel width fitment & Geometry all in one purchase. It's spending $$ w/excellent return on the investment (easier wheel BS options, modern Caster w/o excessive shimming, updated bushings, refocus efforts on the next obstacle).

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Truck has been gone from my ownership 15+ years. It's a big wheeled Pro-Street build now.

One thing to seriously consider is some aftermarket control arms. A set of 1" narrowed/forward arms helps your wheel width fitment & Geometry all in one purchase. It's spending $$ w/excellent return on the investment (easier wheel BS options, modern Caster w/o excessive shimming, updated bushings, refocus efforts on the next obstacle).

Well shoot, looks like I'm a few decades late That about sums my timing up right there!

I have the PB 1" forward lower control arms, was going to run them with stock uppers. I suppose I could try fitment using what I have now (future tense) and then if that doesn't work out, try the the 1" narrow, 1" forward setup.

Because of the wheel blank limitations I may still be ok. once I get the wheel barrel measurement I'll see what I can figure out!