VIN stamping question

[Nevada51]

I just tried to register my 1964 C10 only to find that the number on the plate matches the numbers stamped on the chassis...mostly. The issue is the chassis stamping doesn't include "4C144" at the start as shown on the plate, ie the chassis stamping only includes the plant (H, Fremont) and the six digit vehicle number.

So my question is: is that normal?

To my knowledge there's only two spots for the VIN, the tag in the door area and the driver's side front chassis rail. Is there anywhere else that I might have missed?

Any help with this would be appreciated. Very frustrating! The truck is super original and unmolested FWIW.

[Getter-Done]

The V I N on the frame is a partial number from the factory.

Here is a link that touches on this a little.

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...serial+partial

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

I went through this with a 1967 C10 (GMC). From what I could gather, Chevy stamped the VIN on the frame rail clear as day but GMC did not?

My truck was also 100% original, though aged.

It took an act of congress but I finally convinced the DMV person doing the inspection that there’s only 1 VIN, LOOK AT THE TRUCK - ITS ORIGINAL and who the hell would bother swapping frames to try and pull a fast one for a title?

You may need to go the same route and find someone you can convince….but these days nobody wants to stick their neck out.

Pics of my ‘68 Chevy then the same spot on the ‘67 GMC. The ‘68 Chevy was also stamped under the drivers door area on top the frame.

Similar to you I had all sorts of cool stamps and numbers, none of which really tell much (or that I could decode to mean anything)

[Nevada51]

Thanks for the prompt responses. Seems a partial number is it and nobody understands the quirks of old vehicles these days.

The lady flat out refused to register it as it didn't match the title paperwork 100% which I get, but it is pretty clear that it is original. Somewhat bizarrely she tells me I can stamp the number on there myself and that will be fine, as long as it matches! Go figure, bureaucracy gone wild.. I think I will have to go this route which is annoying given the truck is so original.

FWIW I also found this link (below) and the number is also on the driver side rail under the cab. I can see it there too and it is only the partial number. Odd that the factory stamped the frame in two spots, but I guess there was a method to this back in the day.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=463670

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

My GMC had zilch zero nothing stamped on the front frame horn or under the cab.

If she said stamp it…..stamp away

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Nevada51

Somewhat bizarrely she tells me I can stamp the number on there myself and that will be fine, as long as it matches!

FWIW I also found this link (below) and the number is also on the driver side rail under the cab. I can see it there too and it is only the partial number. Odd that the factory stamped the frame in two spots, but I guess there was a method to this back in the day.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=463670

I had forgot about that thread till you reposted it.
I remember reading that thread also.

Just a Thought,

What about stamping the (Correct #) somewhere else on the frame which would not technically mess with the originality?

So, you could please the DMV. since that person said it was okay.

[franken]

The opinion of one DMV employee isn't the law and stamping the frame yourself may make things worse.
I'd try another location if possible.

[Nevada51]

My initial thought was I could stamp the "4C144" in front of the existing factory number, but I agree with the above comments and I am going to stamp it in another, more easily accessed location. I've just ordered the stamping set; hopefully I can do a relatively neat job of it.

I think it is insanity that I can just stamp the number on and I'm good to go! I am sure another person there might have another opinion on the matter (I'll find out when I go back!). She said they can't trust the tag number because the tag can be replaced, but here I am stamping a number on the frame to match the tag. It just feels wrong on a number of levels.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Nevada51

My initial thought was I could stamp the "4C144" in front of the existing factory number, but I agree with the above comments and I am going to stamp it in another, more easily accessed location. I've just ordered the stamping set; hopefully I can do a relatively neat job of it.

I think it is insanity that I can just stamp the number on and I'm good to go! I am sure another person there might have another opinion on the matter (I'll find out when I go back!). She said they can't trust the tag number because the tag can be replaced, but here I am stamping a number on the frame to match the tag. It just feels wrong on a number of levels.

That is for sure.

I would defiantly get a name and a badge #.

[franken]

Assuming you're in Oz they seem to recognize the difference between VINs and chassis numbers so my guess is you've talked to a misinformed employee of vicroads and not an actual law or policy.
I'd suggest you call and ask or go to another location.

https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi...tem-401c6e86c0

[Nevada51]

On a sort of related topic, out of interest can anyone shed light on how the VIN tags were attached in 1964? Mine almost looks 'pressed' (like spot welds, but can't be welds I would think) on in two spots rather than having any rivets. I've seen other pictures that are similar to mine. I believe from other Chevrolet model forums the rosette type of rivet started in '65. So does anyone know if rivets were rivets a thing in '64? I guess this could vary by plant.

[franken]

https://www.google.com/search?sca_es...22&dpr=1&aic=0

[Short 3/4]

I’ve been in this situation before and have had to keep going back until you get someone (usually an oldtimer) who knows what’s going on, or go to a different office. Unfortunately it can sometimes take several trips.

I strongly agree with the previous post recommending NOT modifying the existing stamping in any way. That can definitely dig a hole you may never get out of.

While every jurisdiction is different, here in California every Highway Patrol office has a designated VIN Officer who is trained in just this kind of thing. There may be an equivalent person in your area that can be of help.

Good luck!

[Nevada51]

Thanks all, I do love this forum for its knowledge base.

Yes, I'm dealing with VicRoads (she was definitely misinformed as she thought a new VIN should have been issued for it with the import approval. Um, no!). I think it is just a box ticking exercise for them and there's no sense checking anymore. As long as I show a photo of the VIN on the frame (they don't even check the car for our Club Permit system!), they will probably tick the box. I could probably even stamp it on a bit of steel, take a picture and show them and say its on the truck frame and I think they'd be fine with it. Not many old timers left anymore in these jobs. OK, I'll stop my ranting now!

I agree, altering the original VIN could be a recipe for trouble, and I really hate messing with the originality of the truck! I will put it somewhere else on the frame.

Franken thanks for the link, there's a number of different looking plate attachment styles there for different years. I'm certain mine is factory correct (no rivets), but it looks a little messy on one end of it, almost like a rivet is missing... but that seems to be the least of my problems!

[Nevada51]

I’ve now stamped my chassis with the number on the tag, so now my frame has the same correct chassis number in three locations, but this one is the only one with the ‘4C144’ before the rest of it.

I stamped it on the left frame rail under the cab, but on the side of the rail, not the top of the rail (where the ‘hidden’ factory stamped chassis number is).

Here’s the jig I made to do it.


Two solid hits of the hammer with each number/letter and it stamped very evenly and turned out a lot better than I expected. I’m going back on Monday to try for registration again, so fingers crossed!

[Nevada51]

Well, all went well on my second attempt. Five years later, it is finally registered! The lady behind the counter never even asked to see my stamped chassis number, so as we suspected, it is just a question of who you deal with.

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Another fine example of our tax dollars at work.

Congrats on the win.

[Pick121]

Originally Posted by Nevada51

On a sort of related topic, out of interest can anyone shed light on how the VIN tags were attached in 1964? Mine almost looks 'pressed' (like spot welds, but can't be welds I would think) on in two spots rather than having any rivets. I've seen other pictures that are similar to mine. I believe from other Chevrolet model forums the rosette type of rivet started in '65. So does anyone know if rivets were rivets a thing in '64? I guess this could vary by plant.

Here is my vin tag off my 1964 from Janesville plant. Definitely not riveted, does yours look like this?

[Nevada51]

Thanks Mike, that how mine looks too. I am thinking rivets came later.

[collins10672]

yes you are correct rivets came in 1965.1960-64 trucks had the vin tag plate spot welded on from the factory?

[mr48chev]

Way late to the party but the GM Heritage center archives don't even mention frame serial numbers. https://www.gm.com/content/dam/compa...olet-Truck.pdf Scroll down

I think that the big problem for a lot of inspectors is that Ford used engine and frame serial numbers that matched all up through the flathead days with very little meaning to the body serial number vin wise and they can't get their heads around the concept that GM didn't do that as it is always Chevy guys who have the frame serial number issues with inspectors.

As far as inspectors go Usually the higher you go up the food chain the more knowledgeable inspector you get and some times it is best to hunt down the oldest guy in town who has already seen it all.