67 GMC super custom build

[chewychevy67]

So I've installed the new block and added the few small extras to my main harness I wanted and I removed the original 12 gauge wire from it and remade it on 10 gauge. Probably wasnt required to do it but I wanted to do it. Less worry about heat and resistance. Now I have a question. My original 67 ac harness has a in line fuse just as it starts out from the main harness before the switch. I've never seen this before. Is it a 67 only thing? Anyone know what size fuse was in here originally?

[pjmoreland]

I could be mistaken, but I believe that fuse is redundant. I believe that brown wire is fed by a 25A fuse in the fuse panel.

[chewychevy67]

Yes it is. Thats why I dont understand why its there. It is factory as this has never been messed with and it has very nice crimped terminals. Mabey it was an attempt to solve the heater fan plug melting ? That is a common issue. Would suck to remove everything in the path just to change this fuse.

[chewychevy67]

Well wiring is coming along but not much fun so freshened up my under hood light tab while I was wiring the switch for a change.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

Well wiring is coming along but not much fun so freshened up my under hood light tab while I was wiring the switch for a change.

Very Cool

So you have a 3D printer now?

[chewychevy67]

No. I wish it did but theni may get out of hand making useless items. I just sanded down a choke tab and I had a broken cluster bezel so I cut the headlight plaquard out of it really nicely and super glued it on the choke tab . Then I just sanded off the s and refinished it..

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

No. I wish it did but then may get out of hand making useless items.

That what I did when I first got mine. (Just Kidding)

I got a few tabs printed but not perfected.

I just broke the printer tonight.

Great job/Idea on the under hood light.

[CG]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

Well wiring is coming along but not much fun so freshened up my under hood light tab while I was wiring the switch for a change.

At first I just saw the picture and was thinking why would he need to turn on his headlight from inside the engine compartment? Then I read it ... Another cool idea!

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

So I got the final pieces back for my cornering lights today. They turned out really nice. He added an area in the back to mount the driver so it wont be hanging in the bottom of the fender.

3D printers are a huge game changer for the classic car/truck world! Amazing build Rod!

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by chewychevy67

When I got my dash pad dyed I got just dashes to send me 2 quarts of the dye they used so I could paint my dash smalls and the dash area behind the pad so it matches the pad and it's a much lower sheen than what my body shop gave me . Will be more like factory now. Plus I found some nice original vents that fit way nicer than the after market ones I was going to use. Its like night and day fitment .

How do you remove the day/night lever from the mirror?

[chewychevy67]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

How do you remove the day/night lever from the mirror?

Im not sure if you can do it with the glass in but there is a sprung tab inside that let's it rotate like a cam lobe. I removed the glass to change it so I removed the gasket and bonded it back after I sprayed it.

[chewychevy67]

I needed to run a vacuum line to the rear of the truck for the liquid tire chain from the button under the dash. I really didn't want to run a length of large rubber hose along the frame so I ordered a 5mm pneumatic hose , the same size of a 10awg wire, and I glued it to the 4 wires that run to the tail lights. Still fits in the factory clips. Wil be barely noticeable after install. It will tee of on the rear frame bracket to the sprayers.

[chewychevy67]

So the factory used stripped rubber vacuum hose and painted dots on the ends of the terminals so you knew which hose to hook them too. But those hoses are bulky and apart I bought the pneumatic hose i thought I'd see if it would work for these as well. I did a test with short runs and it worked well so i bought more and am waiting for it. But I didmanage to do the driver door because it uses shorter runs. The pneumatic hose is really tough and if it does kink it will come back into shape. If these work it will save me a ton of space under the dash.I used colored connections to match the paint spots. Hopefully it will hold up.

[chewychevy67]

So tonight I got my ignition plaquard andkey hole lighting finished up. It will come on with my door lock lights when you push the door handle and go out when it times out at 30 seconds or you turn the key to start it. I just have to make a hole in the dash so I can mount it from behind.1st with no lights on, second with lights on in daylight 3rd in the dark.

[chewychevy67]

I got the parts today to make the vacuum harness for the passenger door locks today and i tested them out using vacuum from the square sitting next to it and wow they worked. Im going to leave vacuum I the system and see if they work in an hour or so. The vacuum tank holds enough vacuum tolock and unlock the doors about 3 times each way once the engine is turned off. Edit. They did not hold vacuum so ill have to start looking for a vacuum leak in the system

[72 tigger]

Love all the details in this build