Engine/Trans Swap LQ4 - 4L80e into bone stock 1971 Chevy C20 camper special

[binford]

I made a cardboard template for the gas pedal and then made it out of some 12ga metal. But found the pedal stroke from the van was too long. Went to the JY and got a 2004 pedal from a truck. I tried using the existing bottom hole in the bracket, but then the pedal was a bit sideways. So I welded those holes closed with a copper backing plate and re drilled the holes, using the stock bracket as a template.
Next is to cut off most of the truck arm and use the stock pedal arm, by drilling a 3/8 hole and welding that where it should be. I spent a lot of time trying to figure stuff out that I push that to the back burner for now.





Moved on to the harness. I bought a BP automotive harness, the length was about 4" short to mount under the seat. I just wrapped tape 4" farther up the harness and that worked.
Drilled the 2 1/8 hole for the grommet and used a hand held Bur tool from Lowes to remove any sharp edges. I ran the wires along the transmission and up the back of the engine. I will make a holder to bolt to the back of the trans to hold wires closer to the floor. I was able to get 1/2 of the connectors plugged in.
My brother said to attached them to the floor pan, I said why all the wires are attached to the engine


That is about it for at least a week as I'm heading to the Mojave Desert to watch some racing in the desert. King of the Hammers.

[binford]

I took the original gas pedal bracket off and used it as a template to drill holes in the 2004 truck bracket.

I then cut off part of the 04 peddle assembly. Then drilled a 3/8 hole in it
I then cut my stock peddle arm and inserted into the 04 peddle and it's very close to where the stock pedal was located.


Original position.



Peddle in place.


The peddle is in the stock location.


Sitting about 2" below the brake peddle

[binford]

Got a to do list and knocking things off. Made a bracket to mount on the back of the transmission which will hold the wire harness up.

I cut out a cardboard template and then looking at it I remembered I had some gussets from another project that would fit nicely, added some flat bar and bent the end over 90 degrees and drilled holes to add a ty-rap.

[binford]

I'm still waiting on parts, so I'm just finding other stuff that needs to be done.
I decided I wanted to use the transmission neutral safety switch. That is not controlled by the ECM with my harness.
I read some other post and they added a Relay to the transmission neutral safety switch to control the starter solenoid.

I went to the JY and cut a harness connector off a 2005 Tahoe today.
used ls1nova71 diagram to wire it up.

[binford]

Got the Vintage air A/C compressor installed, fan belt and upper radiator hose.

Had to do a cut and turn on the upper hose to make it work
.

[binford]

This past week felt like one step forward and five steps back. Every modification I made seemed to create new problems. ��

The A/C install ended up interfering with the radiator hose, the new hose fix the issue with the belt, but now occupied the same space I needed to route the air filter ducting to the passenger side.

Today, I decided to switch things up. Originally, I had planned to mount the air filter on the driver’s side, but that setup required electric fans—and I’m not ready to go that route just yet. I still want to run the stock LQ4 fan.

Then I came across a post by ls1nova71, where he modified the battery box and moved it to the driver’s side. That sparked an idea.

So, I pulled the battery and box today, then grabbed some parts off my Suburban to mock up the ducting for the air filter. It actually worked! After that, I headed to the junkyard to grab the parts I needed and fabbed up a bracket to secure the air filter box in place.

Tomorrow will be working on the battery box move to the drivers side, and adding a second bracket for the air filter box.
I felt better after solving some issues.

[jjzepplin]

These trucks had an option for an Auxiliary battery. The second battery box is available on the forum sometimes. I made my own.

[binford]

Air box and battery relocation done.
I almost bought a battery box from an offroad shop. But decide to cut up my brand new one.

The move was a bit more then I thought it would be.
Had to install some Rivet Nuts, had to buy yet another tool because there is not room for the bigger install tool. $6.99 at Napa

Got the shifter linkage extended, and the new brake light switch to control the torque converter installed too.


Next will be to clean up the wiring with the battery move.
While at the junk yard, I grabbed some relays for future electrical changes too.

[NCDEERE]

I'm working on a similar swap. I may have missed it but what did you use for the radiator and hydra boost? I bought an Escalade for a donor and would like to use the hydra boost from that if I can make it fit.

[binford]

Hydra boost was from the donor. I modified the rod as the ends are different. I just cut off the truck side brake rod and added it to the hydra boost rod. My friend has a lathe so he tapered one piece and drilled a hole in the other piece, then I welded them together.
I also remove the large 4 sided nut and added my homemade adapter plate.
It has a master cylinder off of an early year GM diesel truck circa 1985 that came with Hydro boost. Painted with brake spray paint from Eastwood.
That is a PSC reservoir, worth every penny and comes with a filter too.
I ran the Aeroquip PTFE hoses as they are rated at 3,000 psi.

Edit: You need to measure the stock rod length. You also need to know how far it sticks out into the engine bay as the "new" rod needs to be that exact length but with using hydro boost unit. The mounting plate will affect this length/ Hope that make sense.

The radiator is a Cold Case LS replacement radiator.
If I had to do it again I would just use the donor radiator and modify the support. They cut the bottom mounting plate off the donor and add it to the stock support. Then its all stock hoses too.

[binford]

I finished up the battery wiring, routing the wire along the oil pan to the driver’s side.
I used new wire from battery to starter, while the donor fusible link connects the battery to a terminal block from a circa 1990's chevy pickup. From the terminal block it feeds into the cab through a 50-amp circuit breaker. I added new relays to manage the purple starter wire and installed an ignition fuse block to support additional ignition power connections. I also used the donor ground cable from the battery to the engine and to the frame and from the battery to the fender too.

Before startup, I removed the spark plugs and added about a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder. After letting it sit for a few hours, I turned the engine over by hand to get things moving.

Once everything was double-checked, I started the engine and let it run for about a minute. After checking the fluid levels, I ran it a few more times to verify everything was functioning properly.

However, the transmission seems to be slipping. The dipstick shows no fluid, and I'm starting to wonder if I order the correct one.
The donor was a van and those dip sticks are like 6 feet long. I added 2 qt's and it still no show. Was hoping to drive it to the lift for an transmission oil change.

[NCDEERE]

[QUOTE=binford;9395338]Hydra boost was from the donor. I modified the rod as the ends are different. I just cut off the truck side brake rod and added it to the hydra boost rod. My friend has a lathe so he tapered one piece and drilled a hole in the other piece, then I welded them together.
I also remove the large 4 sided nut and added my homemade adapter plate.
It has a master cylinder off of an early year GM diesel truck circa 1985 that came with Hydro boost. Painted with brake spray paint from Eastwood.
That is a PSC reservoir, worth every penny and comes with a filter too.
I ran the Aeroquip PTFE hoses as they are rated at 3,000 psi.

Edit: You need to measure the stock rod length. You also need to know how far it sticks out into the engine bay as the "new" rod needs to be that exact length but with using hydro boost unit. The mounting plate will affect this length/ Hope that make sense.

The radiator is a Cold Case LS replacement radiator.
If I had to do it again I would just use the donor radiator and modify the support. They cut the bottom mounting plate off the donor and add it to the stock support. Then its all stock hoses too.

Nice, I was thinking I could use the Escalade brake booster. I have a 13-48 lathe, so the push rod is no problem. Thanks.

[binford]

I decided to make a radiator fan shroud.

I had considered using a 2005 Suburban/Truck radiator support, radiator, and fan setup so I could run the stock hoses and overflow tank. Link here However, I realized it would require a fair amount of work with minimal benefit. The Suburban radiator and fan assembly is wider than the opening in a stock radiator support. I could have used a radiator from a 4.8 engine, which is the same width as the stock radiator, but the 2005 fan assembly would not mount to it directly.

After discussing it with a friend, he said use what you have and build one. I found an old sheet of .080 aluminum and decided to make the shroud in two halves so it can be removed without taking the radiator out.

It has been years since I welded aluminum, so it was some helmet time.
My brother now wants one as well. Next time, I will use 5052 marine aluminum instead of 6061, since it is easier to bend.

[binford]

Bought a temp sensor for analog gauges and hook it up. I removed the plug from the passenger side head and screwed it in. I belive its made by Holley as it had a Holley sticker on the package.
Classic Instruments SN12MM Temperature Sensor - 12mm LS


Works great, except I need to add a resister to it as the gauge reads a bit high. To be expected as an LS engine runs hotter around 92c or 195 degrees.