1960 gmc 4000 grain truck

[jesdude7789]

I tried searching for a bit on here to see if there is a forum section for the medium duty trucks but only saw a couple decade old threads. I'm buying an old grain truck that runs and drives but needs brake repair and new tires. My plan is to use it for personal purposes like fetching steel beams and pipe, maybe some dirt/sand since it has the grain bed on it with tilt function. Not trying to max out the GVWR it has of 19500 lbs (13500 after truck weight factored in) and I will maybe carry 2000-6000 lbs on the bed at a time.
Current issues to figure out:
1. Reasonably priced insurance. I don't think i can claim farm/ag use since I am not using it for that and I only have two acres in texas. My first estimate from my current insurance priced it higher than the personal coverage I have now on 3 regular trucks, so that stinks.
2. Modern single piece wheel and tubeless tires that are not outrageous prices.
3. Where to source the brake parts, drums, wheel cylinders, pads, wheel studs

Also, anybody have pictures and projects like this going right now?

[connorm]

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...play.php?f=239

That is the link to the medium duty forum, there are some fairly regular posts on there.

As far as replacement parts, Fort Wayne Brake and Materials has always been a big help for my dad and I. They were able to make custom lines and were able to get stuff for my dad's 1963 Ford F600 Cabover, so they can get the weird stuff. Also having old service manuals or a good Napa store should still have the old books to cross reference parts.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by connorm

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...play.php?f=239

That is the link to the medium duty forum, there are some fairly regular posts on there.

As far as replacement parts, Fort Wayne Brake and Materials has always been a big help for my dad and I. They were able to make custom lines and were able to get stuff for my dad's 1963 Ford F600 Cabover, so they can get the weird stuff. Also having old service manuals or a good Napa store should still have the old books to cross reference parts.

Oh wow, I'm blind lol. I was expecting it under the 60-66 forum maybe. Thanks!

I am looking at the Fort Wayne company's website. I know the booster is bad on the truck.

I found a nice kit that will adapt a newer Ford F550 booster and cylinder to the firewall on the grain truck. Pretty nice solution and has the larger cylinder bore.

Can a moderator move this thread to the heavy hauler forum? Or should i start a new thread over there?

[Grounded63]

I would think farm /AG could apply . Its generally limited on road use. Also you could look into a broad form policy. It's usually liability only. And covers the driver, regardless of what vehicle you're driving. They are usually quite well priced.

[connorm]

Originally Posted by jesdude7789

Oh wow, I'm blind lol. I was expecting it under the 60-66 forum maybe. Thanks!

I am looking at the Fort Wayne company's website. I know the booster is bad on the truck.

I found a nice kit that will adapt a newer Ford F550 booster and cylinder to the firewall on the grain truck. Pretty nice solution and has the larger cylinder bore.

Can a moderator move this thread to the heavy hauler forum? Or should i start a new thread over there?

I forgot to include this on the insurance side. A friend of mine recently recommended this company for classic car insurance. It seems to be a smaller company that you can talk to about your needs and will make sure they get you covered.

https://larueclassics.com/

As far as braking, if you find a kit with F550 hubs/brakes do it as that will open up tire/rim choices too. If you want to replace the factory stuff, call Fort Wayne brake. Generally for this weird stuff you will go through there secretary, then their tech support, and then they'll get you to the guy that really knows what he's doing.

Side story: I went in there to get a clutch for my 53 Mercury and I needed a mercury clutch with a Ford input spline. The really knowledgeable guy came to the desk in flip flops, shorts and a a tank top and disappeared with my old Ford and Mercury clutches and came back 15 minutes later with the clutch I needed. And the best part is I called them that day and told them what I needed, and they told me to come in. They built the clutch for me on the spot, and it was no extra charge. They're great guys!

[DPowers]

Very cool truck. I had parted a 61 4000 series out a few years ago.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

I would think farm /AG could apply . Its generally limited on road use. Also you could look into a broad form policy. It's usually liability only. And covers the driver, regardless of what vehicle you're driving. They are usually quite well priced.

Well I called my old insurance provider and they actually gave me a much lower quote that is very reasonable to me so I think this problem is solved. $40 a month. I asked about the broad form policy but the agent was not familiar with that or didn't think it would apply to my situation.

Originally Posted by connorm

I forgot to include this on the insurance side. A friend of mine recently recommended this company for classic car insurance. It seems to be a smaller company that you can talk to about your needs and will make sure they get you covered.

https://larueclassics.com/

As far as braking, if you find a kit with F550 hubs/brakes do it as that will open up tire/rim choices too. If you want to replace the factory stuff, call Fort Wayne brake. Generally for this weird stuff you will go through there secretary, then their tech support, and then they'll get you to the guy that really knows what he's doing.

Side story: I went in there to get a clutch for my 53 Mercury and I needed a mercury clutch with a Ford input spline. The really knowledgeable guy came to the desk in flip flops, shorts and a a tank top and disappeared with my old Ford and Mercury clutches and came back 15 minutes later with the clutch I needed. And the best part is I called them that day and told them what I needed, and they told me to come in. They built the clutch for me on the spot, and it was no extra charge. They're great guys!

I will check out Larue and see what they say. thank you.

I like the factory split ring wheels and they are in great shape and I would like to keep them. Called a few tire shops around my area to try and find used commercial tires that would fit but no luck yet. The current tires are 8.25-20. I also found that one of the wheel studs is broken off so I need to get new studs and lug nuts as well. The stud diameter is 3/4" and the lug nuts are 1.5" flat to flat.

[jesdude7789]

The truck has 60,000 miles on it, but I do want to open up the rear axle and change the fluid out at some point soon. It's a 14 bolt I think? Time for me to purchase some tools like jack stands, bottle jack, big truck sockets and ratchets!

Also searching for front suspension parts like ball joints and control arm bushings.

[connorm]

That's an Eaton rear end, and it looks like an Eaton 110. Here's a thread on those:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=816158

The Eaton axles are old school technology and are built with great parts, however, it's really hard to get parts for them. A lot of people have swapped them out for 14 bolts, Dana 60s, or Dana 80s. It depends on your plans with the truck.

As far as tools go, Harbor Freight jacks and sockets are good and a good price. Maybe spend a little more and get the Icon ratchets, but the Pittsburgh sockets should be fine. Don't go for Harbor Freight jack stands though, although I can't recommend any style.

[jesdude7789]

I would prefer to keep using this rear axle and just replace axle seals and bearings once I take apart the rear brakes and inspect everything. Kinda just want to keep the truck stock as much as possible if I can. If something major is failing like ring gear tooth is broke, transmission gears are shot, things like that, then yes I will definitely look to upgrade since I'm spending more significant amounts of money regardless at that point.

The engine and transmission are not original unfortunately. I wish it still had the gmc V6 and transmission. I'm going to run this drivetrain like it is until a major failure. It's a v8 and 4 speed.

The side mirrors are pretty small and one of them distorted. Looking for larger glass ones that will work with the stock mount.

[jesdude7789]

pics

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Interesting as if both trucks in the pictures above are actually '60-'61's as they appear to be, both have '62 or newer hoods.

[DPowers]

Originally Posted by C10 - C90 Bill

Interesting as if both trucks in the pictures above are actually '60-'61's as they appear to be, both have '62 or newer hoods.

Definitely interesting. No idea on the white 61. Was originally from Texas. Belonged to an implement dealer then a grain farm. I spoke to the grain farmer that was in his 70's about the truck. If only these trucks could talk.

[jesdude7789]

I found out the rear axle is a GM H150 2 speed. Not sure how many years they used it in production but I saw a 1969 c50 with it as well. Rated for 15000 lbs. I found another H150 from 1960 on a salvage site and it has the 10 bolt hubs so I'm wondering if it is possible to simply swap the axles/hubs so I can bolt on more modern wheels.

The front suspension is torsion bar style and it was in production for 60 thru 62 and then they transitioned to straight axle. Not sure yet what I can do there for swapping the spindles to get the 10 bolt pattern or not.

[jesdude7789]

Does anyone know what if I can use a front i-beam axle from the 70s and newer trucks? Is the spring and frame spacing close enough to just swap it over to my 60 truck easily? I'm trying to also find ways to do hub swaps on the current axles. I wouldn't mind keeping the stock front suspension and rear axle but just trying to find the best options if I swap for 10 bolt hubs. Also, after a little more research, my axle is definitely a T150 since it is the two speed. Not the H150 single speed.

[350TacoZilla]

To take it one step further measure the frame and then check local junkyards for a newer school bus, they keep the spacing pretty common with the commercial stuff. That could get you way newer brakes\seals etc. but not quite up into the air brake sized stuff most MDT's have. Buses also usually have 1 piece 20-22.5 wheels. You can get 8.25 or 9.00r20 tires online pretty easy with places like simpletire, prioritytire etc but if you can find the 22.5's it's much easier to find tires local or if you are out along the rd with a flat.

https://buytruckwheels.com/products/...IKbCs8Iah7mAes

If you keep the stock axles the military also used that large 6 bolt pattern for 2.5T trucks and trailers so there are plenty of those wheels out there but watch, some are split ring rims still.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

To take it one step further measure the frame and then check local junkyards for a newer school bus, they keep the spacing pretty common with the commercial stuff. That could get you way newer brakes\seals etc. but not quite up into the air brake sized stuff most MDT's have. Buses also usually have 1 piece 20-22.5 wheels. You can get 8.25 or 9.00r20 tires online pretty easy with places like simpletire, prioritytire etc but if you can find the 22.5's it's much easier to find tires local or if you are out along the rd with a flat.

https://buytruckwheels.com/products/...IKbCs8Iah7mAes

If you keep the stock axles the military also used that large 6 bolt pattern for 2.5T trucks and trailers so there are plenty of those wheels out there but watch, some are split ring rims still.

Thanks for the info on the spacing. I have seen the wheels in the link several times and because they cost so much I'm realizing I should just update the axles to modern/common axles and wheels. I have seen some nice tandem axle sets for sale on fb marketplace and a few 80s GM trucks that look like good donor trucks. One of them had a pretty rough cab, but the frame, axles, engine, etc all looked good to go. I'm hoping to buy an entire donor truck in one shot instead of piecing everything together over time from junkyards. If the frame spacing is pretty close and all I have to do is maybe drill holes in the frame for the modern spring hangers and hardware to swap over then so be it. I'll be happy with that.

With the military trucks, I was noticing they had six lug 20 inch tube style with split ring wheel OR some trucks like the m35a3 could have 20 inch tubeless beadlocks, but they are also pretty expensive. Boyce Equipment has those. The beadlocks would be cool, but I'm on a budget so spending thousands on old wheels and using outdated tire sizes versus spending about the same money on modern wheels and tire sizes PLUS getting axles, suspension, maybe a big block gas engine as well... seems like the best route at this point.

I also see diesel engines on some of the potential donors. I don't know squat about all the big diesels. Is the Detroit diesel pretty solid? Should I consider cummins or cat engines as well? An engine swap is waayyy off my original intentions with my 1960 gmc but I'm curious about them for another project.