Used motors ?

[cigar-]

I have a few questions about all those motors I see for sale online. There are probably 1000's online at any one point in time. If a person were to be interested in....let's say.....a small block Chevy motor, how does he go about making sure he's not buying a boat anchor?

I look at all of the ads and see motors in all stages of repair/disrepair. Some are filthy as you know what, while some look as though they were just rebuilt. Fresh paint, no oily buildup, no vermin droppings on the intake and such. Then we swing the pendulum in the other direction and it looks like oil poured from every seal and orifice, then got sprinkled with a shovel full of fine dirt particles.

Some of the ads will state, "ran good when it was removed"....but how do you know? Do sellers provide a written statement that they'll take back the motor and refund your money if it doesn't operate to your satisfaction? I rather doubt that. So there's no way to tell if it smokes like a chimney or runs like a top. Noisy lifters? Deep throated rod knock? Or perhaps a bent push rod that tick, tick, ticks away?

Now lets look at finances. Most of these beauties have an asking price of $500 to $1000. Take into consideration all of the unknown in operating condition, performance, function of accessories (water pump, carburetor, distributor) and there's a lot left to consider.

A brand new small long block is around $4000 to $5000. That motor will run right of the box and seems like a worthwhile buy. So I sit here and wonder how a person can want the $500 to $1000 for a questionable motor.

Oh.....and a decent rebuild of my/your motor will run you about $4000 +/- based on parts needed that may be worn out.

It seems (at least to me) the used motor market isn't a good place to sell/buy a used product. Help me out guys. What am I missing?

[jocko]

I ask for 1) a pic of the front eng block stamp so I can at least confirm what it could have been installed in originally, 2) if it's standard or overbore (and note that very few sellers will actually know the answer), and 3) if it turns over by hand.

If all that makes me happy (enough), then I buy it with the going-in assumption that I am doing a full rebuild - and has to be priced accordingly (i.e. pretty cheap). And I always try to get the "full" package - i.e. all the accessories and brackets that may have been sidelined in their removal process.

There are some instances wherein sellers offer a glimpse of it running before you buy either via video or in person (much better) - those scenarios can bring more $ since you know you are buying a running engine and can see things like oil pressure, leaks, smoking, etc.

But, for me, the bottom line for the already-removed engines, I always assume the worst and buy with intent to rebuild.

[cigar-]

So let me ask you this since you have an interest in cars and such....

A 350 Chevy motor....with a manifold and carb setup.....stock exhaust manifolds....just a photo in an ad online or in print....

What is the most you'd pay for that?

Now make it an "alleged" 283 or 327 motor. What would you pay for that?

[jocko]

Just personal opinion/preference -
I wouldn't buy an engine based only on a photo and ad info
I wouldn't buy a 73 or newer engine unless I was putting it in a 73 or newer vehicle
For pre-73, I "try" to find the needle in haystack engine stamping that matches the car or truck I'm interested in building (and have only been able to find one needle thus far)
I would buy a pre-73 engine that was totally unrelated to my current vehicles if it was one I'd rebuild for fun - and those would be engines like a 327, 396, etc. (i.e. something I'd stick in a 57 chevy that I was hot-rodding (and still need to find!)

My turn - for what reason are you wanting to buy an engine? Replace one that is dying in a daily driver? Restoration? Enjoy rebuilding engines? That answer will help drive more accurate answers to your questions. "What would I pay for a 350" is a little vague.

My case may be a little unique - I enjoy rebuilding engines when I have time, but it's nothing I could "make money" at, I would do it for fun - and I'd normally only do it if it were applicable to a current project or if I thought it'd be something I'd want to stick in a potential future project.

A couple examples - my 72 K20 had some late 70's long water pump boat anchor in it - and I was fortunate to find a "correctly coded" 350 from a 72 Blazer that had a stamping code for what could have at least come in my truck originally. Now keep in mind, I'd never install it and call that "original" but it's sure a lot purdier than that that blue thing that came in it.
I also recently stumbled across an old 340 horse 327 vette engine that was complete top to bottom - I almost bought it for a future project, but someone nabbed it first. I'm always on the lookout for 396s and 427s (most 427s in any condition seem to be way outto my price comfort zone, but I'd love to stick a 396 in an older hot rod).
Hope that helps, I know I haven't answered your question directly - but I wouldn't buy a 350 based only on an ad and a picture without further research on its condtion and if it was something that I needed for a specific application.

[Sheepdip]

A compression test goes a long way on giving a good indication of the heart and soul of a used motor if you choose that route.

[theastronaut]

The only way you "should" buy a used engine is if you can hear it run and drive before you buy it. Do a compression test and leak down test, and check oil pressure. See if there is water in the oil or oil in the coolant, or signs of stop leak in the coolant.


That's ideal... I've broken my own rules a ton of times, and sometimes got bit, but more often than not they're usable engines with the usual maintenance items replaced- seals/gaskets, water pump, valve stem seals, etc.


For a sbc, go with as new of an engine as you can- the Vortec 5.7. They don't wear out nearly as quickly like older small blocks do- better fuel management and thinner/better rings keep the cylinders walls nicer longer. The roller lifters can be reused if they're not pitted, so you save the cost of converting and older block to roller lifters. Vortec heads make more power than any of the other stock sbc heads, as long as they're not cracked they're a much better option than any other original head- no need to spend extra on aftermarket heads, they'll make 400-450 hp easily.


Third option is to build an engine yourself, I just found a perfect very low mileage Vortec 5.7 roller block on marketplace for $50 that has zero measurable wear in the bores so it doesn't need to go to a machine shop. A neighbor had a '97 1500 parts truck I got for free that also has a 5.7, so there's all the random parts and hardware I need to put the block together. This way I get a dirt cheap engine while getting to QC each part that goes into it so I know it's right and will last.

[truckster]

I only buy used motors if I can drive them first. That means they're in a running vehicle.

If a motor isn't running, I consider it a core that has to be rebuilt, unless I see receipts from a reputable machine shop.

[LS short box]

Just note.
If you buy a used engine from a salvage yard and don't put in a vehicle like came the warranty might be toast. Most salvage yards around here have 90 day warranties and do compression tests prior to selling.

[Luke87gt]

I’m passively looking for an LY6 and have some of these same questions.

It seems so risky

[clay68c10]

If you can't hear it run in person, pay a core level amount of money for it.
If you don't like to tinker, don't even go there.

[MARKDTN]

I wouldn't buy a pre '86 (2-piece rear seal) SB Chevy unless I was restoring something. The later engines seal better and don't drip out of the rear. Center bolt head valve covers also seal better and 96-99 Vortecs outflow every stock head but many don't like the look in something older. And speaking of heads, early heads with non-hardened seats are more expensive to build. You are hard pressed to build old heads for what you can buy new better flowing ones for anyway. The last few SBs I built I had as much in reworking heads as in all the other hard parts and machining for a rebuild. In my experience many ~75-85 heads are cracked so I would stay away from them. I wouldn't buy a 283 (or any small journal) unless I was restoring something and needed it to be casting numbers matching. Unless I can hear it run, it's a core. If it's something super special I'll pass, I don't need a '65 Corvette yada yada yada engine unless it's cheap (and that one violates my no small -journal rule anyway). Leave those for the restoration guys. Don't get caught up in the "it came out of a Corvette or Z28" unless you are going to make serious power. Of all of the SBs a 350 will be the cheapest to build. If you paint it orange and install it you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in a 1959 283 and a 1999 350 block. Heads would give it away and maybe the balancer but normal '67-72 accessories will work on all SB. 2-bolt and 4-bolt also don't matter for any kind of roughly stock build. 4-bolt is nice, but I'm not going out of my way to have one. Don't know if that helps but basically: if I can't hear it run it's a core, build a 350 it's cheaper (and more power than a 283, 327, 307....), IMHO later ones are better because they leak less. My .02

[jjzepplin]

I traded a palm sander that someone gave me for my Small Block 400 complete.