Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"

[landarts]

As I approach the point where the trim is going to be installed, I have read as many threads on the subject as I could find, watched over a dozen YouTube videos, and started putting a game plan together.

One of the issues I was interested in addressing is the use of a factory-style plastic clip that gets the double-stick tape. When I used it on the repair of a truck that needed trim put back on, it holds the molding off the truck a bit from the body and does not look right in my opinion. I have watched a few good videos where they used ABS plastic cut to fit and VHB 3M double stick painttape, applied a primer before sticking it on, and the fit and finish look so much better.

So I decided to use this method, and wanted to do some testing before I go at it. I cut a piece of scrap acrylic to fit and measured out the thickness of one of the 3M double-stick tapes I had on hand, and it looks like a winner. When I applied the tape to the acrylic, the height was perfect and will give me the flatter look of the molding against the body I was looking for.

The last picture is the lower trim just temporarily taped on from the backside. I wanted to see how it was going to look with all of it on the truck.

[landarts]

While the passenger side trim was drying, I decided to get the driver's side up and aligned for installation. After a few minutes, all was looking good, so I marked the top location of the trim with a white Stabilo pencil. Marked the start and stop of endpoints.

Then went to work on marking and cutting the 1/8th ABS for installation on the backside of the trim. On the two long upper bed pieces, which were purchased new from LMC, I had to peel up the trim edge on the back so I could slide the parts inside. Once they were all inside, I hammered it back down with a body hammer and a block of hardwood on the backside in the vice. Hopefully, my 3M VHB tape will show up today so I can get this on and flip the truck around to do the other side.

[landarts]

I finally got the driver's side on a couple of days ago, before heading to Arizona to participate in my daughter's master's program graduation. Back now, so back to the build.

The method of using ABS plastic for the substrate to hold the VHB 3M tape worked amazing. Kept the molding extremely close to the body metal, and it is really well attached. It was a lot of work to cut each piece and line it with three pieces of VHB tape per piece of ABS. I made the parts about 3.5 times wider than stock trim, and also added a few extra per trim piece. I used about 21 linear feet of the 1" VHB tape for the driver's side. Used about two primer swipes per piece, wiped the body and the part with alcohol before applying the primer. Waited five minutes for the primer to be ready, then pulled all the red tape backing off of the VHB tape then, carefully lined it up with the white stabilo pencil marks, and the endpoint marks. Then apply pressure, and you are done.

On the last piece that goes on the lower section of the bed, right before I applied pressure to finalize, I noticed the part that wraps around the corner did not look right. I tried to pull the part off so I could make some adjustments, and that was a no-go. I finally had to get out some Kevlar fishing line I had and get it under the trim to work my way across to get it to release. After getting the last piece of trim off, I worked the part to give it a little more twist and fix the top portion that was standing out too proud against the body to create an air gap. Removed all the destroyed VHB tape, reinstalled the tape, wiped down again with primer and alcohol, then reinstalled the part.

Today, I am going to try and tackle a few of the mechanical items on the list before I spin the truck around 180 degrees so I can install the other side of the trim.

The last picture is to remind me of where the truck started.

[Greg58]

Great work Jim, the moldings look wonderful!
Greg

[TKCR]

Read thru the entire build last night, very impressive work!

I was contacted by bestview about doing a set of belts for Devil. I feel quite honored to help out with that!
Here’s the set/parts that I picked out. These will be getting stripped completely down for thorough cleaning and rust removal on the retractor mounts. Actually the rust removal/cleaning has already been done on the buckle housings.
All the plastics will be prepped and freshened up with the same color used, SEM Super White. Once all that is completed, they will get the new webbing installed.
Also, New GM emblems will be installed on the buckles, and also all New Chrome male ends.
I will update with more photos as I get steps completed.

Last photo is a set that I have done with the same colors in the past for someone else.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by TKCR

Read thru the entire build last night, very impressive work!

I was contacted by bestview about doing a set of belts for Devil. I feel quite honored to help out with that!
Here’s the set/parts that I picked out. These will be getting stripped completely down for thorough cleaning and rust removal on the retractor mounts. Actually the rust removal/cleaning has already been done on the buckle housings.
All the plastics will be prepped and freshened up with the same color used, SEM Super White. Once all that is completed, they will get the new webbing installed.
Also, New GM emblems will be installed on the buckles, and also all New Chrome male ends.
I will update with more photos as I get steps completed.

Last photo is a set that I have done with the same colors in the past for someone else.

Wow, those are beautiful. Better than brand new. Those will really be the icing on the cake for the interior. I will keep you in mind for my next build, thanks again for the beautiful work!

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by landarts

Wow, those are beautiful. Better than brand new. Those will really be the icing on the cake for the interior. I will keep you in mind for my next build, thanks again for the beautiful work!

You’re welcome. Got the plastics cleaned, prepped adhesive promoter and color on them.

[TKCR]

More before and after pics.
I’m not sure if I have mentioned before, these buckles are my favorite. I love restoring these.

[Chevyland]

https://youtu.be/Wehasm8nsqI?si=M2bvViTmoz6nSV-e

[TKCR]

Belt are completed for the Devil Cowboy. Can’t wait to see them installed

[Chevyland]

https://youtu.be/qgCMUOVnFpY?si=1d1X5JNl4xZN3MSy

[landarts]

Well, finally back from 2 month visit to Arizona to soak up a little sun and visit a relative who is terminal with cancer. Hope to get caught up here in the next few days and finally get the Devil Cowboy completed and off to Bestview.

While I was away in Arizona, Bestview let me know that he had a set of seatbelts being rebuilt by TKCR, and these will be the nicest seatbelts I have ever seen. Well, Bestview was not lying. These are better than new and absolutely flawless. I can stress enough that if you are in need of factory-rebuilt seatbelts, these are the ticket.

Now that we are back in the saddle on the Devil Cowboy, I hope to have updates every two or three days. Stay tuned!

[TKCR]

My my my, those look beautiful on that beautiful seat!
This is the part I enjoy the most, seeing them installed in the truck.

[IronCanine]

Those look great.

[landarts]

Well, over the last few days, I have been trying to get the rear driveshaft installed. The driveshaft was about 1 inch too long, so I spent some time trying to hunt down a matching Spicer yoke that fits up to the end that attaches to the transfer case. That was not going well so I decided to run the driveshaft out to the local drive train professional. After inspection and giving him the center line to centerline measurements on the truck in resting weight, they decided 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 need to be taken out. He was a little worried about the play at the spline, but wanted to check it after it was packed with grease. The quote to shorten, balance, and make it ready to bolt on was $160. I said go for it, with a two day turn around time.

Got a call from the driveline shop and basically, there were a few issues with the yoke on how someone other than the factory welded it or modified and that needed to be replaced, amongst a few other small issues. So now the driveline will be $300. At least it will be right and be fresh for the Devil.

After agreeing on the work cost on the driveshaft, I began to think about how the truck was before I received it. Bestview purchased the truck with a 6 inch lift and 2 inch body lift on it, had the guy remove the 6 inch lift kit and put it back to stock height. I now see why the driveshaft was too long and was possibly modified by someone other than a professional driveline specialist. Anyways it is all good now and moving on to the next item.

Bringing back my check-off list to see where we are at and where we need to go.


Items in RED are completed.

Under Hood/Engine
-install new engine wire harness
-install front wire harness
-alter for relay to headlights
-alter for alternator being on opposite side
-lengthen brake booster wire
-mount alternator
-mount dual battery wiring harness
-build heavy duty battery cables
-install tilt steering column to power steering
-block off extra water outlet on water pump
-install all belts
-install all hoses
-install wire management for spark plugs
-install starter
-install new plug for brake booster
-install reserve tank switch
-install new line for gas
-install NL2 tank

Transmission
-install braided lines to radiator for cooling
-install torque converter bolts to pressure plate
-double check fluids
-install modulator hoses


NP205
-install chrome gear shift
-install boot and custom shift plate
-install small cotter pin on shift linkage with washer
-rear driveshaft

-front driveshaft
-double check fluids

Front and Rear Axles
-paint hubs
-install shocks
-drain and install new fluids
-install new axle shafts on passenger side front
-finish hooking up parking brake in rear

Exhaust
-finish hangers
-install rear down tubes

Interior
-install seat
-install seat belts
-install headliner
-install visors and recolor the plastic holders
-install new key bezel
-finish tilt column
-install radio/speaker/antenna
-install additional fuse block

-install woodgrain items
-install handles
-install glovebox
-install steering wheel
-install mirror
-install sill plates
-install door rubber

Body
-bolt down bed
-paint and install hood hinges
-drivers side trim installed
-install screen inside cowl/route antenna

-install windsheild (scheduled)
-install back window (scheduled)
-paint hood
-paint tailgate and hardware
-shoot bed liner
-treat bottom of hood with bedliner or 3M undercoat
-install passenger side trim
-install outside mirrors
-build and install grill guard
-install bumpers

[best view]

On the streach run

[landarts]

Well, after the rear driveline was installed, I did some shop cleaning and moving things around so I could spin the truck around 180 degrees in the shop. Needed access to the passenger side of the truck so I could pull the passenger side axle shaft that was broken at the u-joint connection. Since I have never done this repair before or really know much about it I decided to post a Help please over here https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=852911 . 57Taskforce, JerryMoss, and 72ochre all chimed in with some great information.

Apparently, the 73 and up square-body axle shafts are the go-to replacements because they are not tapered, like the 71-72 shafts, and are a perfect fit. I went with their suggestion and purchased from Denny's Driveshaft online.

Here are a few pictures of the teardown, and the last picture is to compare the taper and the non-tapered shaft.

[landarts]

Here are a few more pictures from the axle shaft replacement. The first picture shows where there was a tear in the metal on the disc brake adapter, cleaned up and ready for welding. The rest are showing the steam cleaning, scrubbing with degreaser, and finally getting to the paint. Now just to wrap up the cleaning of the hub and brake caliper, then on to paint and assembly.

While things are drying and in the process, I will start with getting the passenger side trim setup and marked out in white Stabilo pencil just like the driver's side. Then start processing the parts that will be attached to the trim for installation.

Hopefully by the end of the weekend, I can mark off a few items on the checklist.

[landarts]

Well, a couple of days spent on doing the front axle repair, and we are about 90% done. It took a bit of time to get everything clean enough for paint, scrubbing, steaming, rinse and repeat. Also had to wait for an outer shaft seal kit from Spicer.
Now I am at a standstill with the repair until information becomes available. This is my first rodeo on this subject, and I am reading and trying to watch every video that is out there on the subject.

While I was putting on the hub and about 1/4 inch from it seating into the location, I could no longer spin the shaft by hand. I noticed that the inner shaft yoke was right up against the opening of the axle tube. Scratching my head, and wondering if there was supposed to be a slinger sleeve, as the 71-72 axle shaft had. After reviewing the Spicer parts diagram, there was no slinger sleeve on the 73 and up axle shafts on the inside. So for now, that is something that has to get figured out. I will need to move on to another part of the checklist while this gets resolved.

Pict 1 - Picture shows everything cleaned up and painted, also the welding repair was made on the disc brake bracket
Pict 2 - shows my attempt at putting it back together
Pict 3 - show the old slinger seal and the new 73 inner axle shaft yoke, which is machined differently than the 72 and will not accept the slinger seal

[57taskforce]

Jim I replied to your PM, but didn’t address your complete question. I believe are correct in that the later shafts don’t use the dirt shield/slinger or whatever it’s officially called. I had a complete 73 (per the BOM number on the tube) d44 axle assembly in my K20 before I swapped in the Dana 60. That part was not present in my axle when I was freshening up the outers a few years ago.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Jim I replied to your PM, but didn’t address your complete question. I believe are correct in that the later shafts don’t use the dirt shield/slinger or whatever it’s officially called. I had a complete 73 (per the BOM number on the tube) d44 axle assembly in my K20 before I swapped in the Dana 60. That part was not present in my axle when I was freshening up the outers a few years ago.

Tyler, thanks again for the help on the axle. I did send you a PM explaining what I found. Thanks!


After I read 57Taskforce PM, directing me on a few things to check, I had a light bulb moment, where I remembered one of the diagrams from Spicer and someone talking about the different seals. I went out to shop and grabbed the hub to see if it was possible that one of the old seals was still in there and causing the issue. Sure enough, after removing the remnants of the old seal I was able to install the hub with no problem, and without binding.

Once I got to that point, it was about lunch time, so I headed out to the local auto-parts store next to my house to pick up a Dana 44 gasket, some oil proof RTV and a few bolts to replace the old ones so I can install new shocks this afternoon. I walked into the store, I was the only one there, and the guys says to me, "What are you looking for?" I responded, "I have 72 Chevrolet K20, I need a gasket for the front axle, which is a Dana 44". He then begins with an attitude telling me to slow down, he cant remember all that. I tell him "O.K., let me know when you are ready". I then repeat it to him again and he is asking about motor, transmission, etc,etc.....I jump through all the hoops for him, and he says that is a special order. I then asked if any other stores in the valley might have it, and he turned to me and said, "If any stores in the valley had it, I would have told you so". About then, my fun meter expired. I looked him in the eye and said, "Thanks for the help, and that I would not be doing business with this store again.

I go back in my truck, opened my phone, and had both items ordered on Amazon within about three minutes. Delivered to my house in the morning between 4 and 8 am, also cheaper than what they were going to special order for me. I so miss the old mom and pop stores that no longer exist.

Done ranting, and time to celebrate getting the axle shafts back in the truck. Time to check another item off the list.

[best view]

I know you’re glad that’s one is being checked off Jim , thanks Tyler for helping on that problem but don’t go anywhere we still have a nl2 to put in

[landarts]

Originally Posted by best view

I know you’re glad that’s one is being checked off Jim , thanks Tyler for helping on that problem but don’t go anywhere we still have a nl2 to put in

It is in the works. Working on cleanup right now, also waiting for a K&B tank sealer kit to come in from Summit Racing.
Making my own carriage bolts with new materials and a metal rod.
The rod section will go through the tank, and you will never see it. Should have a few pictures of the NL2 shortly.

Here is what is left on the truck:

Under Hood/Engine
-seal and install NL2 tank
Transmission
-double check fluids
-install modulator hoses
NP205
-front driveshaft
-double check fluids
Front and Rear Axles
-install shocks
-drain and install new fluids
-finish hooking up parking brake in rear
Exhaust
-finish hangers
-install rear down tubes
Interior
-install woodgrain items
-install handles
-install glovebox
-install steering wheel
-install mirror
-install sill plates
-install door rubber
Body
-install windsheild (scheduled)
-install back window (scheduled)
-paint hood
-paint tailgate and hardware
-shoot bed liner
-treat bottom of hood with bedliner or 3M undercoat
-install passenger side trim
-install outside mirrors
-build and install grill guard
-install bumpers

[57taskforce]

Hmmm… NL2?! Been there done that… well sorta. I pulled the tank some years ago but have not gotten around to modifying the current bed and reinstalling it. I left the gauge switch and all that in the truck so all I’m really lacking is just putting the selector valve and tank in, and cutting the holes in the bed for the filler. I’ll get bored enough to tackle it one of these days. With the price of gas right now, it’s probably better that it’s not installed

Jim, not a problem I’m always happy to try and help anywhere I can.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Hmmm… NL2?! Been there done that… well sorta. I pulled the tank some years ago but have not gotten around to modifying the current bed and reinstalling it. I left the gauge switch and all that in the truck so all I’m really lacking is just putting the selector valve and tank in, and cutting the holes in the bed for the filler. I’ll get bored enough to tackle it one of these days. With the price of gas right now, it’s probably better that it’s not installed

Jim, not a problem I’m always happy to try and help anywhere I can.

Tyler, that tank looks like it is in pretty good shape. I am doing some major surface rust cleanup on Kenny's tank and throwing a 25-gallon K&B gas tank sealer kit before it is installed.