Next Project: Dash Pad Replacement

[Luke87gt]

Hi guys, once I wrap up the steering wheel, I’ll move on to replacing the dash pad that I have sitting in the garage. My stock one is badly cracked in multiple places.

Before I start, I’m wondering if there are any BKMs (Best Known Methods), tips, or tricks to keep in mind to make the job go easier? This will be my first time attempting a dash pad.

I know a few of these screws are tough to reach. Hopefully the gauge cluster doesn’t need to come out?

Thanks guy!

[PbFut]

Probably should have done the pad before the wheel. I dont think you can get to the nuts without the cluster and glove box out.

[58 Special]

Best to remove cluster glove box door and insert, radio and any AC ducting if present. Steering wheel isn't as critical but may be in your way.

[Luke87gt]

Shoot…

If I have to get the cluster off, might as well install those LED bulbs I have sitting here

Anything else I should do if that cluster has to come off?

[MikeB]

Glad I saw this post. Mine has a crack, but not that bad. However, since I'm installing an A/C system, everything to the right of the instrument panel is removed. I've removed the panel many times over the years, but never look forward to dropping the steering column and messing with the fiber optic cable.

Turns out OER makes a maroon pad, so maybe I should get one while the gettin' is good, and while I have access to the pad hardware.
I probably just need a kick in the a...

[Luke87gt]

Do it Mike!

What part of north Texas by the way

[howzzzit]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Hi guys, once I wrap up the steering wheel, I’ll move on to replacing the dash pad that I have sitting in the garage. My stock one is badly cracked in multiple places.

Before I start, I’m wondering if there are any BKMs (Best Known Methods), tips, or tricks to keep in mind to make the job go easier? This will be my first time attempting a dash pad.

I know a few of these screws are tough to reach. Hopefully the gauge cluster doesn’t need to come out?

Thanks guy!

If your putting on an oem style be careful not to over tighten the nuts underneath. You can create a dimple on top. At least that happened on mine. Can't remember where it came from. My old one had my son's teeth marks from his younger days. Must have tasted good. And yes the studs are a real booger.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Do it Mike!

What part of north Texas by the way

Turns out Summit Racing shows an availability date in July, so I sent OER a message asking them if I could get one any sooner. My fault for waiting so long, because it's been on my wish list for years!

I live about 25 miles north of downtown Ft. Worth.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Turns out Summit Racing shows an availability date in July, so I sent OER a message asking them if I could get one any sooner. My fault for waiting so long, because it's been on my wish list for years!

I live about 25 miles north of downtown Ft. Worth.

Cool, got a good buddy in Flower Mound

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Turns out Summit Racing shows an availability date in July, so I sent OER a message asking them if I could get one any sooner. My fault for waiting so long, because it's been on my wish list for years!

I live about 25 miles north of downtown Ft. Worth.

oldchevytrucks.com had mine in stock. They had the best price and best shipping also. I installed it about 2 weeks ago. They all come from Taiwan.

['68OrangeSunshine]

The outermost ones are the hardest to work on. Get the nuts started on those first, then work inboard.
Everything should be out of the way: glovebox,A/C ducts, Radio, Heater controller, Ash tray, Instrument panel.

[custom10nut]

You are asking about one of the biggest PITA tasks with these trucks.
Pay heed to all the advice given above, as I’m sure these members had one numerous dashes.
I wish I would have had this much expert advice before I did mine.
I had my dash completely apart when I did mine (HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended). And some of the connectors were STILL very trying on the patience, especially the ones on the ends.
You’re going to be putting everything in “By Feel” as you won’t be able to see any of the mounting studs.
(How do some men get SO GOOD with their Fingers and Hands, in the dark? )
Good luck on this.

[Luke87gt]

Excellent advice guys!

Will start this soon and appreciate all the input!

[1970Tex]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Turns out Summit Racing shows an availability date in July, so I sent OER a message asking them if I could get one any sooner. My fault for waiting so long, because it's been on my wish list for years!

I live about 25 miles north of downtown Ft. Worth.

https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...s/3968210.html

I was looking for a maroon one for a while too. They are still in stock. Web site claims its made in the USA? Bought mine about 3 months ago, but I haven't installed mine yet, so i cant comment on the quality.

['68OrangeSunshine]

In 1999 or 2000, I bought a blue dash pad from Brothers. The stud on the extreme Driver's side was AFU, as if a hot torch had slagged the threads on the stud end. They traded it out for me, but I had to suck up the return postage. I Think they claimed it was USA-made, but they must've lied.

[slikside]

sub'd. Good info.

[Richard]

As far as I know the oem style pads are no longer available anywhere. I have a parchment one (also not available anymore) purchased from just dashes years ago. Only urethane are available now. If someone has a source for oem style pads I am sure many would appreciate a link. The urethane are the ones that get dimples when tightened down, not oem style. No doubt easier to install with cluster, glovebox and radio out.

[3757chevy]

I bought a couple of them when I was working at the Chevy Dealership in the late 1980's. I installed them on my trucks I had back then . The quality wasn't great one curled up on the ends and another split in the middle above the radio. Since then I've bought OER and JustDashes, so far they've been good. I still have one blue one in the box I need to put in by Blazer. Not looking forward to taking the dash apart.

['68OrangeSunshine]

It's laborious, but back before there were 67/72 vendors [~mid-'80s ] I took my brittle Fawn original dash pad, and used a putty scraper to break off old chips of bad grey vinyl.
When I was done I had a naked rough foam pad, with gouges and nicks, etc. I built up the divots with new foam, shaped and shaved irregularities with a razor blade, attached using 3M #77 spray glue.
I then had a 1 foot x 7 foot strip of saddle vinyl -- left over from covering my seat.
When it looked like it would fit, I shot both surfaces with the 77. [Do this outside -- or don't for a cheap high!]
Spray water on one surface so you can pull it back if you get it on wrongwise.
I had to tuck some ''darts'' under and rivet then down on the corner ends, but you 'll never see it.
If it looks good, let it set up overnight.
You still have to deal with all the studs in tight places.
Still hanging in there on my '68 C/10 Stepside.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 1970Tex

https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...s/3968210.html

I was looking for a maroon one for a while too. They are still in stock. Web site claims its made in the USA? Bought mine about 3 months ago, but I haven't installed mine yet, so i cant comment on the quality.

Funny, but I ordered OER #396821 from them yesterday afternoon. Great minds think alike!

I had just about given up on finding a maroon one that was in stock. Then found this one on sale. Score!

About Classic Industries: It's been a while, but I've ordered quite a few items from them for an 82 C10, and some things for my 69. I have always been happy with their products and customer support. They even have guys who have hands-on experience with some of the parts, or at least that was the case 8-10 years ago.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

It's laborious, but back before there were 67/72 vendors [~mid-'80s ] I took my brittle Fawn original dash pad, and used a putty scraper to break off old chips of bad grey vinyl.
When I was done I had a naked rough foam pad, with gouges and nicks, etc. I built up the divots with new foam, shaped and shaved irregularities with a razor blade, attached using 3M #77 spray glue.
I then had a 1 foot x 7 foot strip of saddle vinyl -- left over from covering my seat.
When it looked like it would fit, I shot both surfaces with the 77. [Do this outside -- or don't for a cheap high!]
Spray water on one surface so you can pull it back if you get it on wrongwise.
I had to tuck some ''darts'' under and rivet then down on the corner ends, but you 'll never see it.
If it looks good, let it set up overnight.
You still have to deal with all the studs in tight places.
Still hanging in there on my '68 C/10 Stepside.

Might be able to cut foam with a hot wire and a couple wood guides if anyone else goes this route:
https://youtu.be/GWF1XwrgjD4

[mike16]

Do the you tube thing

[MikeB]

How many studs are there? Not on this forum, but on the dash pad!

[Bubbausa]

All good advice above, some have different ways of where to start & finish but all good. GIANT PITA without most all being out of the way to access.
May have missed it in reading the thread, but the few bottom screws that go into the dash go into very thin plastic and if you over tighten they go right thru & you have to rig something to make it hold yet still be passable as "right"...Ask me how I know.

BTW I'm pretty sure I have a brand blue one still the box for a 69 truck long gone years ago. If that's what ya need let me know & I'll dig it out & check it.

George

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Might be able to cut foam with a hot wire and a couple wood guides if anyone else goes this route:
https://youtu.be/GWF1XwrgjD4

I've seen that done on youtube, but on my project the size of the foam to be cut was minimal. Hence just trimming with a razor blade.