Removing Blazer Bedsides - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Huskerboy2 · 10-02-2004, 10:49 PM

How hard is it to remove the bedsides from a Blazer? If you do it, does the bed floor come out easily also and the "cab" portion as well. I think I saw a bunch of pictures from GeeEmm one time that showed this pretty well.

If you break a Blazer body down like that, are you in danger of not being able to get it lined up properly again after disassembly???

*Gee_Emm* · 10-03-2004, 01:08 AM

The bedside has some welds holding it on at the front and the back, nothing major. Other then that is is bolted on, you would have to take the end cap off of the rocker box to get to some of the bolts and of course the rocker would have to come off. The bedfloor would just come off with the bedsides gone, it is just bolted down. As for alignment as long as you are careful and check your work periodically during the rebuild it should work, you will have to play with shims on the body mounts to get the doors to line up. I had mine all together and it fit ok and half of my Jimmy is made from a pickup truck so if you are using Blazer parts things should be a breeze. If you are doing work on just the cab and the rocker boxes arent solid you may want to reinforce it like did, I just used old bed rails and tacked them to the dash and floor.

WyoChevyJoe · 10-03-2004, 02:09 PM

Hey Gee Emm, Thanks for the info & pic.

Even though I'm currently selling my 71 Blazer to fix up my 72 Burb (which will have Woodie panels on it someday), I want to eventually make a phantom Woodie rod out of a 69-72 Blazer 2X. Your pic & info gives me good info without having to experiment first.

Thanks for sharing.

Huskerboy2 · 10-03-2004, 08:44 PM

Thanks GeeEmm. I knew you would have the answer. So, it looks like the rear door pillar or rear door jam stays with the "cab" portion of the tub. I guess the exterior skin of the bedsides just wrap around the outer edge of that rear door pillar and it's spot welded down the seam. Does the bedside separate pretty easily from that rear door jam just by cutting out those spotwelds, getting all the bolts out and separating the panels?

*Gee_Emm* · 10-04-2004, 12:29 PM

The pillar would come off with the bedside, I have to replace the door pillars on mine thats why it is sitting there all by itself,

Trifelynn · 10-04-2004, 09:15 PM

Gee Emm...it looks like I am going to be following in your footsteps, with what I am going to do...sorry for the duplicate thread, about removing my blazer body...

you say most of yours is made from pickups parts...did you happen to use truck bedsides? I am looking into a full bed for 550...The one on the parts board. '67, no markers...but, I don't know how much fab needs to be done, to fit the truck sides on the blazer sides...any suggestions?

*Gee_Emm* · 10-04-2004, 11:21 PM

I used a pickup cab and a LWB pickup floor. You can use SWB bedsides but you will have to cut down the front and fold the metal over which isnt an easy thing to do. It took me quite a while to get this patch formed to perfection nevermind doing two whole sides. But unless you can find a couple decent Blazer bedsides that is the way to go. If you haven't seen it already check out my progress thread for my Jimmy, it will give you a better idea of the inner structure of how the sheet metal is.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=59412

Trifelynn · 10-05-2004, 07:07 AM

You are a plethera of information...thank you kindly...

I don't care what South Park says....Canadians ARE good people..hehe

10-02-2004, 10:49 PM	#1
Huskerboy2 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Austin, Texas, USA Posts: 1,628	Removing Blazer Bedsides How hard is it to remove the bedsides from a Blazer? If you do it, does the bed floor come out easily also and the "cab" portion as well. I think I saw a bunch of pictures from GeeEmm one time that showed this pretty well. If you break a Blazer body down like that, are you in danger of not being able to get it lined up properly again after disassembly??? __________________ '72 Chevy Blazer

10-03-2004, 02:09 PM	#3
WyoChevyJoe Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming Posts: 30	Hey Gee Emm, Thanks for the info & pic. Even though I'm currently selling my 71 Blazer to fix up my 72 Burb (which will have Woodie panels on it someday), I want to eventually make a phantom Woodie rod out of a 69-72 Blazer 2X. Your pic & info gives me good info without having to experiment first. Thanks for sharing. __________________ WyoChevyJoe 72 Suburban - future Woodie Rod - Ex Forest Service C20 2-72 C10s - 1 to be fixed up & 1 for parts 71 Blazer K5 - For Sale still 70 C10 - Rusty hauler Dang, it's summer already

10-03-2004, 08:44 PM	#4
Huskerboy2 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Austin, Texas, USA Posts: 1,628	Thanks GeeEmm. I knew you would have the answer. So, it looks like the rear door pillar or rear door jam stays with the "cab" portion of the tub. I guess the exterior skin of the bedsides just wrap around the outer edge of that rear door pillar and it's spot welded down the seam. Does the bedside separate pretty easily from that rear door jam just by cutting out those spotwelds, getting all the bolts out and separating the panels? __________________ '72 Chevy Blazer

10-04-2004, 09:15 PM	#6
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	Gee Emm...it looks like I am going to be following in your footsteps, with what I am going to do...sorry for the duplicate thread, about removing my blazer body... you say most of yours is made from pickups parts...did you happen to use truck bedsides? I am looking into a full bed for 550...The one on the parts board. '67, no markers...but, I don't know how much fab needs to be done, to fit the truck sides on the blazer sides...any suggestions? __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer

10-05-2004, 07:07 AM	#8
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	You are a plethera of information...thank you kindly... I don't care what South Park says....Canadians ARE good people..hehe __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer

10-03-2004, 01:08 AM	#2
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	The bedside has some welds holding it on at the front and the back, nothing major. Other then that is is bolted on, you would have to take the end cap off of the rocker box to get to some of the bolts and of course the rocker would have to come off. The bedfloor would just come off with the bedsides gone, it is just bolted down. As for alignment as long as you are careful and check your work periodically during the rebuild it should work, you will have to play with shims on the body mounts to get the doors to line up. I had mine all together and it fit ok and half of my Jimmy is made from a pickup truck so if you are using Blazer parts things should be a breeze. If you are doing work on just the cab and the rocker boxes arent solid you may want to reinforce it like did, I just used old bed rails and tacked them to the dash and floor.

10-04-2004, 12:29 PM	#5
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	The pillar would come off with the bedside, I have to replace the door pillars on mine thats why it is sitting there all by itself,

10-04-2004, 11:21 PM	#7
Gee_Emm Account Suspended Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 3,991	I used a pickup cab and a LWB pickup floor. You can use SWB bedsides but you will have to cut down the front and fold the metal over which isnt an easy thing to do. It took me quite a while to get this patch formed to perfection nevermind doing two whole sides. But unless you can find a couple decent Blazer bedsides that is the way to go. If you haven't seen it already check out my progress thread for my Jimmy, it will give you a better idea of the inner structure of how the sheet metal is. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php3?t=59412



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