10-05-2004, 11:59 PM | #1 | ||
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just a vent...
anyone else out there learning to repair their trucks without help? I get so mad espially when trying to get the dam timing and dwell right.... There has to be a easy way to the 2 together.. sigh..
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10-06-2004, 12:08 AM | #2 |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
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Do away with the points,and throw an HEI in it,that'll reduce your stress by 50%
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
10-06-2004, 12:10 AM | #3 | |
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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10-06-2004, 01:10 AM | #4 | |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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10-06-2004, 11:51 AM | #5 |
Fetzer Valve Technician
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Do you have an Engine Analyzer? I bought one at Sears for $50 bucks and had no problem with the timing and dwell.
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10-06-2004, 02:16 PM | #6 | ||
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Engine Analyzer?
What is that? I have decided to goto HEI. just gotta have the $$$ to do it. But willing to try the "Engine Analyzer?" Rich PS.. flustard is nto why my spelling was wrong.. it was me. I write better on paper, just type more errors. But thx for noticing <---
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10-06-2004, 02:45 PM | #7 |
Fetzer Valve Technician
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Here is what it looks like:
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10-06-2004, 03:15 PM | #8 | |
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10-06-2004, 03:20 PM | #9 |
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That is $50. toward an HEI !!!! They are not that expensive. Look at summit.
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10-06-2004, 05:10 PM | #10 |
Left Foot Functioning
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Hard to beat a stock HEI...
Look at the junkyard first. They can still be found for around 20 bucks here. Check to make sure it's not the later model with no vacuum canister, and there should be no wires coming from the base. The good ones also have a larger cap. Check for excessive wear (the shaft shouldn't wobble in the case).
Add a cap & rotor, and drive it for another 20 years. SSOW
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10-06-2004, 08:40 PM | #11 | ||
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how do you know when the dwell angle is right? 8 degrees for timing right? vac advance line off while timing same with dwell adjustments? I can get anything from the net.. I wish I could download all your guys truck knowledge!
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10-06-2004, 08:50 PM | #12 |
I miss this truck.
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The dwell and timing will be a little different for each individual trucks setup. On my 307 auto, it is 30 or 31 degrees dwell, 8 degrees before on the timing. A good service manual can be indispensable when trying to properly tune your truck.
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10-06-2004, 09:16 PM | #13 |
its all about the +6 inches
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I agree with the junk yard HEI. You can take the 50 bucks, buy the HEI, new cap, new rotor, and some inexpensive wires and you'll be set.
You buy the tool and you'll have to learn how to use it, and then you'll use it all the time to mess with the stupid points. Just my opinion. |
10-06-2004, 09:53 PM | #14 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Actually, THIS is just a vent.
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10-06-2004, 10:34 PM | #15 | ||
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Just got off the phone with www.summitracing.com and they quoted me $150! They said they did not have one for less then that. Thats far from $50..lol maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
Rich
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10-06-2004, 11:01 PM | #16 |
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Go with the hei, you will be happy you did.No other way to go.That's the first to go when I get any kinda old vehicle.You can find all them all the time,at any salvage yard.
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10-06-2004, 11:38 PM | #17 |
Captain Ed
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Check ebay for an HEI. I got a billet one for $119 with a 50,000 volt coil. I had a buddy check the curve on it and we didn't change a thing. Runs great and I don't have to worry about it. I will keep a module in the glove box for insurance.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...926545375&rd=1 another one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...925406040&rd=1 |
10-06-2004, 11:51 PM | #18 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
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Stickshift or walk told ya. Go to the junk-yard. Nothing wrong with used parts. Like he said, check the shaft for excessive play. I got my first one from an old Monte Carlo.
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The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
10-07-2004, 12:14 AM | #19 | |
Don't say "Oops!", Doctor
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I'll second (or third or fourth as the case may be) the vote for an HEI setup. Scrounge the junkyard and you'll have one in no time. Personally, I don't think it's reasonable to expect to pay just $20 in most areas, but I wouldn't go beyond $50 for a good looking one. You'll be glad you ditched those points. Also, scrounge the local pawn shops for an analyzer. I've seen good ones for $10 or $20 more times than I can count. If nothing else, they're handy as hell when you need an underhood tach. While you're there, look for a vacuum gauge and a timing light. They're quite handy to have around as well.
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10-07-2004, 12:42 AM | #20 |
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So, I'm soon to have a spare HEI from a 80 with a 350, anyone want it? $75 + shipping, it has a brand new coil, brand new module, brand new pickup coil, and no play in the shaft at all. It'll come with the rotor and cap, you'll need to get a set of wires, and regap your plugs to 0.045. I just spent about 120 bucks in new parts for it BTW, it should be good to go for a very long time
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10-07-2004, 12:44 AM | #21 | |
Don't say "Oops!", Doctor
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'Mutt 1968 CST LWB: R.I.P. 1967 Chevelle: TPI 454 beast 1967 C10 SWB: Claimed when Bumpster didn't put it on his list |
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10-07-2004, 12:51 AM | #22 |
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Only reason why I am pulling it out is becuase I am going to a TPI which uses an electronically controlled HEI, I can't use the cap from the old HEI thats in the truck, but can use the plugs.
Or -- If you want, I just bought a 74, its got a bone stock HEI in it, I'd sell it for 50 + shipping. At least, I think it has an HEI, haven't looked under the air cleaner yet... BTW -- Forgot to mention that I'd want the coil from the 75 dollar HEI, I'll include two other coils that are known to work well though, both have a crisp blue spark just like a good coil should
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
10-09-2004, 11:24 PM | #23 | ||
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OK bought the dwell meter, specs setup..
Dewll 30 Timing 8, and 10, and 12 RPM @ Idle 700 New Plugs Champion .35 New wires less then 1 yr old. New points and condensor in 1. New Igntion coil New PCV valve New fuel pump New fuel filter New fuel line I have spent 2 days setting timing points gaps and all that buusiness. Timing seems to be getting better @ 12 but still backfires and sputters when you accelarate. WTF is going on here? Heard something about cam shaft guides? any other ideas? Under the choke pulloff valve was a small port that was sucking air. Plugged it and it seemd to be better. Is this supposed to be plugged or a line suppose to go to it? I canot find any vaccume leaks other then the one I listed above. Also I heard about a burnt valve.. I do not hear the sound it makes if it is burned. The higher I put the timing the better it runs but I know runing the timing to high will F things up. Am I in need of a new motor? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!! Rich PS: I am changing my dam name it is jinxing my ass... I cannot afford the HEI. So rule that out as a suggestion
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10-10-2004, 01:01 AM | #24 |
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did you just go pay 50 bucks for a dwell meter? but you wont buy a 15-20 dollar HEI?
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10-10-2004, 01:32 AM | #25 | ||
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pickings are slim here.. only 1 junkyard here in Oroville CA. Next closest town is Chico which is about 20 or 40 miles away depending where the junkyard is.
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