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Old 10-21-2004, 11:37 PM   #1
Nima
Blue 67
 
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OOK!, Fire in the carb!

Alrighty!, with all your help, and explanation, I took of the distributor and then brought the #1 to TDC(I think at least), After a little struggle, I was able to sit the distributor in place. Engine tried to start and started but idled very very rough. If I let the gas go it dies right away, even with my foot on the pedal it dies sometimes. I tried to rotate the distributor a little at the time but one of this time after engine tried to start, boom! a loud sound and I had fire in the carb!. Nothing happened majorly, as soon as I let the gas go, fire stopped too!. Any comment would enlight this dummy!. I am not sure if I had connected my electric choke. Could it be related to that? For those of you who don't know the story, I changed the intake and carb and valve covers but I couldn't get the engine to start.
Thanks
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Old 10-22-2004, 12:17 AM   #2
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Ok this sounds very familiar to mel Tx firefighter remember this? Nima I was walked through this proccess a few months ago by the folks on the board. Ok lets start over. Are you sure you were at tdc? For me the easiest way to tell was to take out plug #1 put in a shop rag about a inch, unplug the distributors power and bump until i saw that rag get spit out not sucked in spit out. You can tell the differnce. After that put the distributor back in with the rotor poitning to 1 or as close as possible. That should have you at tdc or very close. If possible have a buddy there near the plug hole if not then bump look bump look etc. Holler back if you need us and take your time!!!!
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Old 10-22-2004, 01:02 AM   #3
Nima
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Thank you. I'll try it again this weekend.
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Old 10-22-2004, 02:03 AM   #4
boilrman
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I would have to agree with them above. I think you are 180 degrees out.
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Old 10-22-2004, 07:18 AM   #5
Tx Firefighter
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Rule of thumb from old mechanics......

when you get a pop like that, that causes a fire in your carburetor, continue to crank the engine. It will suck the fire down into the engine and not burn your carb. It's actually real common when the timing is messed up.
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Old 10-22-2004, 07:51 AM   #6
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Also, just because I learned the hard way, when you're bumping the engine, you are going to want to make sure you have the fuel line hooked to the carb, otherwise the fuel pump likes to shoot gasoline all over the engine compartment.
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Old 10-22-2004, 07:52 AM   #7
68C15
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BEEN THERE, DONE THAT!!
its hard for me to explain how to find TDC. I have a whistle I screw into the plug hole & a piston stop stop for finding true TDC. you can make your own whistle using a compression gage hose minus the valve in the end. attach a kids round whistle to the end & crank the engine over by hand until the whistling sound just stops. you can tell the diff between TDC compression & TDC exhaust by the sound.
you can make your own piston stop using an old spark plug. revove all the innards & weld a piece of 3/8 bar stock in it so there is about 1" protuding from thredade end. put this "tool" inplace of #1 plug & turn engine over by hand until it comes to a stop. mark the balancer at the 0* pointer. turn engine over backwards until it stops & mark balancer again. then the middle of the 2 marks you just made is TRUE TDC.
then install whistle & rotate til it is at TDC compression (remember the diff. between sounds?) on the true tdc mark you just found.
to get dizzy phased correct for install.
I hope this makes sense.
place dizzy in vise with gear pointing down.
place cap on dizzy & mark side of dizzy where #1 tower is.
remove cap & turn shaft so rotor is pointing at mark.
place a screwdriver (flat bladed) on the middle of gear between 2 teeth.
without touching or holding shaft run screwdriver DOWN the gear turning shaft. (this simulates the removal of dizzy).
mark the top of dizzy housing where the rotor is pointing. (this is your "pre-install" mark).
install dizzy in engine with it pointing at your "pre-install mark". if it doesnt go all the way down slowly turn engine by hand until the dizzy meshes with oil pump drive.
reconnexct all wires & start engine. set timimg using your true TDC mark & enjoy!!!
Todd
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Last edited by 68C15; 10-23-2004 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 10-22-2004, 09:12 AM   #8
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68C15, I see the Red Green coming out in you, a whistle stop, COOL.
I just use my compression gauge to tell, Most will just put a finger over the hole and you will know when the compression stroke comes up. Even the blind could tell this, LOL. It helps to have a remote Starter switch or a friend to crank over the engine.
Good luck with your timing, Mike
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Old 10-22-2004, 10:58 AM   #9
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I'm with mike just put your thumb over the spark plug hole and have someone bump it over till it blows you thumb out. Then line up zero on you balancer with your timing mark.
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Old 10-22-2004, 11:12 AM   #10
Nima
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To be able to rotate the engine without cranking it since I won't have any help this weekend, Do I need to remove all the plugs or just #1 would be enough?
Thanks about all your explanations guys, I just have to read them over and over. Some of them sound a little complicated for my dum mechanic brain but I am learning a lot. Thanks again.
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Old 10-22-2004, 11:13 AM   #11
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yeah like they said get another person and just put your finger over hole and bump it till you get burst of air out of it. then take the cap off and make sure rotor is pointing towards the wire on cap that goes to number one cylinder. then just make sure on cap that wires are in correct order going 18436572 if its a 350.
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Old 10-22-2004, 12:17 PM   #12
Nima
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Two things got my attention; 1- After having the #1 on TDC, does the distributor rotor has to be toward wire numer one or spark plug #1? or if they mean the same? 2- If the #1 is at TDc shouldn't the distributor just fall on it's right place easily (ofcourse if it is not 180 degree opposite)? Thanks.

Last edited by Nima; 10-22-2004 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 10-22-2004, 12:20 PM   #13
dubie
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I had the EXACT same thing happen to me. We re- did the timing and the problem was fixed
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Old 10-22-2004, 01:35 PM   #14
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pointing at #1 wire
the dist will not fall right in as the gears on the camshaft & dist are spiral.
humor me, follow my directions to the T & you will have no problems.
sending a PM with my phone # if you want to talk 1 to 1.
Todd
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Old 10-22-2004, 03:31 PM   #15
cduster
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68c15,

Quote:
without touching or holding shaft run screwdriver UP the gear turning shaft. (this simulates the removal of dizzy).
I may be thinking wrong, but wouldn't you have to slide the screwdriver down to simulate dist removal?

Dan
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Old 10-23-2004, 07:35 AM   #16
68C15
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Red face

DOOOH!
you are in fact right. I should not try to educate & type while eating breakfast & listening to the baby cry for attention.
I officially appolagize for my inaccuracy.
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