Does anyone have a lowered truck with a one piece drive shaft???? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jugernot · 10-30-2004, 12:02 AM

I was wondering how you prevented the one piece drive shaft from hittng the carrier bearing mount cross member. I am sure it is a simple fix, but I want to see how you fixed yours.

In the attached pic, you can see that the drive shaft almost hits the top of the cross member.

jugernot · 10-30-2004, 12:05 AM

another pic

Tx Firefighter · 10-30-2004, 12:06 AM

I've had several short wheelbase trucks lowered with 1 piece shafts.

Remove any old carrier bearing junk and there should be plenty of room.

Tx Firefighter · 10-30-2004, 12:08 AM

I just saw your 2nd picture.

Forget what I said. My trucks were all just lowered. Your custom rear subframe setup is a whole different ball of wax than I've ever dealt with.

You may now resume your regular internet viewing pleasure.....

67chev · 10-30-2004, 12:10 AM

jugernot...I was running into the same problem, so I went with this.....

http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...%20Crossmember

*1972C10* · 10-30-2004, 12:11 AM

You could Make a new Top section weld it in then cut out the old one .. Kinda like a C notch.

jugernot · 10-30-2004, 01:16 AM

67chev,

I was looking at that piece today, how much more room did that piece give you?

lamar · 10-30-2004, 09:03 AM

Man that looks great!!!

SCOTI · 10-30-2004, 10:46 AM

My 68 is very close but has not hit that I can tell. My RestoRod is a little lower & did require trimming the inside/top to gain more clearance. After trimming, the the entire c-member was boxed.

jugernot · 10-30-2004, 08:33 PM

I think I will just have to drill out the rivets and buy the x member from Early Classic.

roj2323 · 10-30-2004, 11:59 PM

well before you spend a lot of money put a jack under the rear end put jack stands under the frame and remove the coil overs. this will free up your suspention to travel up and down. next jack the rear end up as far as you can and see if the drive shaft touches the crossmember. if it does concider purchasing an aftermarket trans crossmember to bolt in its place. the reason i say this is the crossmember thats causing you problems is no longer holding the trailing arms, it's only holding the 2 halves of the frame together.
i hope this is marginaly helpfull,
ondrew

10-30-2004, 12:02 AM	#1
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	Does anyone have a lowered truck with a one piece drive shaft???? I was wondering how you prevented the one piece drive shaft from hittng the carrier bearing mount cross member. I am sure it is a simple fix, but I want to see how you fixed yours. In the attached pic, you can see that the drive shaft almost hits the top of the cross member. Attached Images __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

10-30-2004, 12:05 AM	#2
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	another pic Attached Images __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

10-30-2004, 12:06 AM	#3
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I've had several short wheelbase trucks lowered with 1 piece shafts. Remove any old carrier bearing junk and there should be plenty of room. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

10-30-2004, 12:08 AM	#4
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I just saw your 2nd picture. Forget what I said. My trucks were all just lowered. Your custom rear subframe setup is a whole different ball of wax than I've ever dealt with. You may now resume your regular internet viewing pleasure..... __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

10-30-2004, 12:10 AM	#5
67chev Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 458	jugernot...I was running into the same problem, so I went with this..... http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...%20Crossmember __________________ "SicStee8" Chevy SWB Fleetside, in progress...500 HP 383 w/TriPower, 700r4, 3.73's, Lowered, Shaved Driprail/sidemarkers/handles/ant, Gonna rock!! '96 Chevy Tahoe 4X4 '84 Chevy C/K10 4X4 (FOR SALE)

10-30-2004, 12:11 AM	#6
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	You could Make a new Top section weld it in then cut out the old one .. Kinda like a C notch.

10-30-2004, 01:16 AM	#7
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	67chev, I was looking at that piece today, how much more room did that piece give you? __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

10-30-2004, 09:03 AM	#8
lamar Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Covington,Ga Posts: 453	Man that looks great!!!

10-30-2004, 10:46 AM	#9
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,949	My 68 is very close but has not hit that I can tell. My RestoRod is a little lower & did require trimming the inside/top to gain more clearance. After trimming, the the entire c-member was boxed. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-30-2004, 08:33 PM	#10
jugernot Life, Be In It..... Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Novato, California Posts: 1,498	I think I will just have to drill out the rivets and buy the x member from Early Classic. __________________ Project Name: LEMON DROP. Reconstruction started "December 2000". Projected completion date "Who knows" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200082

10-30-2004, 11:59 PM	#11
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	well before you spend a lot of money put a jack under the rear end put jack stands under the frame and remove the coil overs. this will free up your suspention to travel up and down. next jack the rear end up as far as you can and see if the drive shaft touches the crossmember. if it does concider purchasing an aftermarket trans crossmember to bolt in its place. the reason i say this is the crossmember thats causing you problems is no longer holding the trailing arms, it's only holding the 2 halves of the frame together. i hope this is marginaly helpfull, ondrew



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