HEI FAQ Questions/Clarifications... wordy too!

[Luvlegs]

I never seem to have much luck getting responses to my threads - I don't ask what back space is that or what drop do you have or what wheels are those... usually just odd issues I run into but they often drop off the current pages quickly with little to no response... ANYWHOOOO, I read an FAQ on HEI's and I am looking for some clarifications that I am sure WILL HELP OTHERS besides myslef. I originally pm'd the author but realized he's been away since 2003 so I'll just paste in what I sent..... (keep in mind I cut up the FAQ for the sections I had questions on so if you see parts missing, that's why).... WARNING - this is WORDY! Any direction or ideas are appreciated - Thanks all!

I have a couple questions when you have a chance - they are related to your FAQ posted about HEI installs.
I put one from a mid 70s I6 nova into my 72 I6 - Starts immediately, runs good. As I turned the dizzy to tune by ear, I ran out of turning room as the vacuum module hit the block. I pulled it, got to TDC, restabbed it - runs fine at idle but on the highway, I cannot get it over 50mph, there is a shudder/shake at speed - (possihly related to this.......At idle, it's hard to describe but the exhaust sounds like "piff piff PUTT piff PUTT piff") - all the wire are correctly landed, connected and good. I added some comments in bold, red, to parts of your write up - its below. Any information you might be able to provide is greatly appreciated! There are ONLY two other thing I am questioning:
1)the effect if my vacuum module is bad.... I
don't belive it is but will be checking it...
2)if the external coil ground wire is not grounded
(would it still run?) - pretty sure it is hooked up but will also double
check that....

anywhoo, here's what I have:

Step 1

To upgrade from points to an HEI, begin by obtaining a known HEI, or freshen one up that is in good shape (i.e. no cracks, gear not worn out, no slop from shaft) from the salvage yard; replacing the pickup coil, cap, and rotor as a minimum. [B]THE EXTERNAL COIL?[/B]

Now, determine which type of wiring harness is in your car. A car that has the ignition switch in the steering wheel column and/or no inline ballast resistor (usually '69 and later), take note of the bypass wire that goes from the (+) post on the coil to the "R" post on the starter solenoid, this wire will be discarded. I AM UNCLEAR ON THIS - I HAD A YELLOW WIRE TO MY COIL - just upline from it, there was another splice off to ???? I DID NOT remove anything else but the wire to the coil after the splice - taped it up


Now that the 'hot' wire(s) have been located, (which is the hard part, by the way, and the #1 reason why this swap goes sour for some) SOUR BECAUSE WE DIDNT REMOVE THE OTHER END OF WHERE EVER THAT ORIGINAL YELLOW WIRE WAS HOOKED? (and still is)disconnect the battery, unhook the wires and tape them off. I did tape off the one that went to the original coil for the points system.

Set the engine at #1 top dead center, (verified by finger-blown-off-the-sparkplug-hole method or both valves closed at #1 while balancer mark is at zero degrees). Remove the cap from the distributor being replaced, and note location the rotor is pointing. Remove the old distributor. DID THIS ALL)After lubricating the HEI distributor gear and installing a new gasket Mine didn't have one but I can always go put one on it, install it so the rotor is pointing in the same position as the old one.

Install the cap, making sure all three leads (black ground wire is easy to forget) I SWEAR THERE IS NO Third wire on mine - just two from the new(used) external coilare in the cap receptacle.

Now, the HEI needs a connection for 12 volts. Install new 12g wire from the (bat) terminal in the cap through the firewall; and splice into the ignition switch's main feed wire, usually pink in color. If this presents a hassle, any ignition-switched source under the dash will do, just don’t use a fuse box accessory connection. I used a terminal in the fuse box labeled "unfused ignition" - works but are you saying I need to move it somewhere else?
If the you have no inline ballast resistor and/or the ignition switch is in the steering column (1 'hot' wire, as verified earlier), this will complete the hook-up, and the bypass wire between the old coil (+) and the starter solenoid (R) can be deleted. NOT SURE AGAIN WHAT THIS IS - If it's the other end of the original yellow wire, will this be detrimental to it running if it's still in place?

Install new HEI wires, gap the plugs around .040"-.045", hook up the vacuum advance to a ported (no vacuum at idle) Can this still be the vacuum line that ran to the original points distributor? source of vacuum on the carburetor. Connect the battery, ensure the engine starts and shuts off, and go for a point-less ride!