How much of a turn off is a rusty cab vs. a rust free cab

[texanidiot25]

trying to convince my dad into the idea that swapping cabs on the CST10 is a good idea, because mine is so rust damaged it's beyond our skills to repair. His idea is "Bondo the rust and drive it til you sell it"...

The rust on my cab is rockers (They were bondo'd too, and are now falling apart), under the cowl at the seams, the kick panel vents, the kickpanel-floor joint, rust threw along the windshield (passenger bottom corner is getting finger sized), the pass. A-pillar is rusting threw at the roof, enough to the point where I have little faith in it's structure. Drip rail is rusting out slowly too.



Not to mention, it's got a leaking cheap ass sun roof that someone threw on.

How much work is that to you, not to mention, if it was bondo'd up (again, not my idea)...


VS.

A rust free, even if it's in primer, cab:


On a truck that's a 1969 CST10 with a fresh 350/350, 6-lug D60, 73-87 disk brakes, late model silverado buckets and center jump seat, AC cab (what little is left), with lots of new wiring work and lowered 3" all around. Only other rust is the passenger fender bottoms, a banana sized area in one of the bed floor corners. Solid truck and excellent running gear otherwise.

What sort of price would you give it
A) With super rusty cab
B) With super rust free cab