07-03-2010, 08:41 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 511
|
New Clutch Time
Well the noise that would occasionally come and go when the clutch engaged finally came and went this past month in the C-30. As expected, the clutch left with it.
Been putting it off when the weather was hot but now with mild temperatures and not wanting to pay someone to do what I know/think I can...yes, today is clutch day as I sip my coffee for confidence this morning. Yes, I recall the last time I did a clutch job was over 30 years ago on a '66' 3/4 Ford in my garage one week-end, so this is not something I "know" how to do. So if this thread becomes longer than this you'll know why! Yet like a mechanic friend reminded me; I have the tools, I have the shop, I have his transmission jack now and even he told me why should I pay him to do what is basically a nut & bolt job. I think he smiled as I drove off with that jack...he was going fishing this week-end. So I have read and reread the Haynes manual, (only one I have at this point), searched this site and more on this topic and with a brand new creeper purchased yesterday,(finally had a reason to buy one) and the dusty transmission jack on loan ( there is probably a reason it is dusty that I don't know yet) this is my 'holiday' project. Any input beyond this is welcome. I just don't want to pay the $400 plus in labor to do what I should be capable of doing if I just follow directions! Damn, I knew there was a catch! Speaking of directions, besides the manual...here is the outline I am following thanks to "sixfour 4x4" in another post on this topic: "a clutch is a pretty big job...you haven't done this before? you'll really want to invest in an attachment for your floorjack to hold your tranny. 2wd or 4? a 4wd transfercase adds a lot of weight. you're going to run into snags. i see lots of swear words in your future. however if you want a step by step, here goes... remove transmission tunnel cover. remove bolts top the sm420 and pry off can shifter and trans top (stuff a towel around the gears as to not get them dirty!) support motor and trans aside from crossmember remove exhaust or anything else that could be in the way disconnect speedo and e-brake disconnect driveshafts (tape up your barrings so the needles don't fall out) disconnect clutch mechanism (whether hydro or mechanical) remove bolts from crossmember to tranny remove crossmember (this aids in aiming the outputshaft back into the pilot barring) support trans with floor jack remove bolts from bellhousing to engine block pull trans down and back remove bolts from clutch pressure plate remove clutch from flywheel remove flywheel ********TAKE FLYWHEEL TO MACHINE SHOP!!!!!!!!!!***********###### also consider flipping your ring gear or replacing it...(theres a trick with an oven lol) remove pilot bearing by any means possible(i have a trick with grease and a plug to hydrolically displace the barring hit me up when you get to this point) bolt everything back down now the fun part...you'll have to manuever the trans shaft back into the clutch and into the pilot barring. you can use the output to turn back and forth to work into the clutch. it's kind of like a space shuttle dock and it has to be just right.... bolt it all back up.... " http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ch#post3955355 Feel free to add to this. If ever there is a need for a sticky thread for this topic it is to have one for those like me venturing to where I have not gone before! Have a safe holiday! Mark
__________________
1985 Chevy C-30 Hydraulic Dump Bed 2001 Saturn SC2 (go to work car) 2010 PT Cruiser (wife's car) "Reality is just a hallucination brought on by lack of alcohol." |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|