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Old 07-10-2012, 01:52 AM   #10
Nopocustoms
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 66
Re: Not Another Rebuild Thread....

Quote:
Originally Posted by McMurphy View Post
Well guys, even though I had to work a full day yesterday, and today I began with going over our ATV to fix why it wasn't starting.... I still got some stuff done on my build.

Just to put it close to home...
This was the engine on 29 April when I got the engine stand assembled and got it mounted on there.

Attachment 946851


This is it today after I got done.

Attachment 946852

Attachment 946853


I have the dizzy set in there, but I am pretty sure it isnt timed right. I looked at some videos on how to do it, and for the most part I think was doing Ok. But you know that nagging feeling that is never wrong?
Yep, got it.
So it is not tightened down yet at all, I may dink around with it more but I am pretty sure I wont be satisfied until I can get someone who knows what they are doing over here to help me.

I have decided that I want a shorter dip stick too, that one is for all the emmissions stuff that was on the engine, and now just looks silly long.

The intake manifold is on and torqued down, but the carb is just sitting up there. I need to get the mounting bolts. I also need a longer fan belt for the PS pump, this one is the 3 port for the hydroboost and the wheel is larger, as well as the mounting bracket. Otherwise it was a productive day... time to wash up for dinner now.
I love your build - I can give you pretty good advice on the Distributor placement, it will give you a 50 50 chance without pulling the drivers side valve cover. If you're so inclined - here is my technique for both ways. This also assumes you have the same timing cover and balancer that came with the engine.

Without removing valve cover:

1. Rotate engine until the timing tab and line on the balancer line up at zero degrees.

2. Identify the location you wish to use for #1, I reccomend the post immeditaley to the right (standing in the center of the grill looking at the dist.) of the vaccum advance can. See picture below.

3. Make a pencil mark on the dist. housing DIRECTLY under the post for #1

4. Remove cap and drop the Dist. into the hole with the rotor on.

5. While Lowering in the dist. the rotor should be pointed just further right than the mark, when lowering it, it will catch and move to the left towards the mark.

6. If it doesn't drop all the way to the intake rotate the motor until it does.

7. place the clamp on loosley, and look at the "point" on the star wheel on the shaft- towards the point on the stator - (circle around the point)


Right now, the motor is either perfectly static timed for #1 or #6, because the dist. is driven off of the cam, which rotates once for ever 2 crank rotations, it may be timed for TDC (Top Dead Center #6)

So if no run - pull the cap, point it at #1 in the dist. again, then Rotate the motor 1 Revolution, and pull dist. and re-install to the #1 position. Like I said - without pulling a plug and cranking it feeling for compression, it gives you a 50-50 chance.

If you choose to pull a valve cover I can guarantee you will nail it on the first try !

1: Pull Drivers side valve cover

2: Rotate motor Clockwise (as you face it) watching intake valve - when it opens and starts to close look at the timing mark --

3: Line up the timing mark - as long as you hit it before the the exhaust valve opens - you are on TDC #1

Then follow same procedures from #2 above.Kind of long winded, but I hope it's helpful.
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