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Old 05-15-2014, 02:43 PM   #12
66Submarine
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Dallas, GA
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Re: Eaton full float hub/drum removal/wheel bearing setup info

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrichard View Post
yeah he did it says CRAFTSMAN on the side of it LOL (a floor jack on DIRT what could possibly go wrong there?)
Sorry I don't have an airplane hangar to work in, buddy. I have no level concrete anywhere, and only enough sloped concrete to put most of a truck on--I work in the dirt or I don't work at all.

That is gravel packed into clay, and it's actually just fine for using that jack (which is also the only "real" jack I have). If I have to jack something up on soft ground I use a plate of steel or something to make sure it doesn't sink.

"Stock" jack stands are a pretty terrible idea on dirt IMO, and I generally don't use them; I use solid wood blocks cut from a decent diameter tree, which don't have nearly the potential to sink (because they are flat across the bottom instead of three stamped steel feet). Otherwise, I'd weld plates of steel to the bottom of the jack stands.

In those pictures, I just wanted to pull a hub to see if the brakes/drums were totally shot or not. I wasn't under the truck at any point, and all the other wheels were firmly on the ground. Not to say it's the smartest thing, but it was what I did.

But that's not the point of this. There is little info available about dealing with this stuff, and I thought it might be helpful to someone who needs to redo their brakes before they grind the rivets halfway through the drums like PO's did to mine. That's all this was/is, and the pictures are just to help illustrate.
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