Re: Coolant Leak
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoNeck
Sorry, but I would not use Barrs Leak. Additives (bottled fixes) are a multibillion dollar business in the USA. Rarely does one actually work yet there are a lot of folks that swear by them.
The placebo effect is what is in most of these snake oils and a lot of them can do damage. Can't tell you how many engines I've seen with semi-clogged coolant passages and compromised water pump impellers from these products. There are few additives or fixes in a bottle that are nothing more than naptha, alcohol, and pale oil. If it says "petroleum distillates" on the bottle, now you know. A radiator fix in a bottle is going to plug a lot of things and depending on the engine can cut off vital coolant to areas. Once you put this stuff in, it's a pain to get out.
Same with these radiator additives that are suppose to cut surface tension and make coolant more effective. Once in the engine I can assure you that electrolysis will start and things will suddenly start to corrode. They fix- sell the vehicle because it ain't comin' out cause it's in the metal and you've screwed it up. Got a coolant leak - take it to a shop and have it fixed right.
As far as sealants, I would use black silicone for paper thermostat gaskets. Better quality gaskets like the FelPro I mentioned wouldn't need a sealant because it features a ring of sealant embedded in the gasket.
I have attached a photo to help you see what goes on under that thermostat housing. I hope this helps.
Good luck,
POP
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I've used bars leaks for years...it WORKS, plain and simple. If you've never used it how can you say whether or not it works? It's been around for decades for a reason Taking a radiator to a shop for repair is a band aid as well. If you want it fixed "right" replace the radiator.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed.
1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck.
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