Complete Scotts IFS install (how to) with pictures...

[jephs422]

The whole install will actually run in print later, so here's a quickie on just how easy an ifs install really is. I know a lot of you guys balk at the thought of cutting and welding, but really, it's not all that bad. Remember, if you aren't a competent welder you can always hire a mobile welder to buzz it all up once you have it tacked in. It won't take him more than an hour for final welding.

Now naturally I am leaving out a few steps to save space...

First things first, the entire front end was removed. When I arrived it was already pulled; but I don’t think I need to show you guys how to remove front sheet metal or a stock suspension. In this case, the frame was previously boxed, but it was done quite poorly so it was being redone also. One thing I wish I would have been there to photograph was how to measure the front axle centerline. In this case it was marked on the frame table where we will transfer it to the frame later.



In addition to removing the front sheet metal and suspension, the boxing plates were also removed with a plasma cutter. For those of you without a plasma, a die grinder with a cut off wheel would have worked just fine. As a matter of fact, I’ll show you a bit on that later. Ultimately the goal is to create two smooth frame rails so the crossmember and airbag brackets are easy to weld in straight.



Like I said, the boxing plates originally welded in were done with 18g sheetmetal. Not exactly what I’d call strong enough to hold a crossmember in, so after it was all cut out it we took a square to mark the inner frame rails. Here the goal is to grind the top and bottom of the frame rails level to each other. When the boxing plates are welded in we want them to be straight and level and not all cock eyed.





Once we were satisfied with the fit of the rails, a template was made for the boxing plates. I tell everyone to box it all from the firewall forward, but for time sake, we boxed just where we needed to.