'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Mil-Spec]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Hey there Mil-spec. First, Thanks Second, why would anyone switch from Air Force to Navy???

Other functions of the PCB. Yes, I plan to build a board to remote mount many of the indicator LEDs and LCD.

I will mount the PCB high under/behind the dash inside the plastic enclosure. It has fairly flat front/back covers. The front cover includes the Acura gauge faces that no one will see.

The 9-pin DSUB connector (often used for RS-232) mounted to the board is not the one shown in the vice with soldered wires (that's the gauge side). The one on the board has crimped/inserted pins and a plastic section/pin-housing protruding from the back side, which is what comes close to touching the PCB but is actually held off the board by the stand-offs.

I'll get some close-up shots of that for ya.

[QUOTE=Frizzle Fry;3738211]Here you go Mil-spec. What do you think?


Looks good. Please I hope you don't think I'm being too anal. I really like what you're doing a lot and don't want you to have any problems. I work in development, prototyping and PCB design, so my kids can eat (by no means an expert though)

The only immediate potential issue I see is where the standoffs interface with the PCB. The solid green areas where the standoffs are resting on are copper plains. I have no idea without looking at a schematic, if the 2 planes are electrically the same, or what. You could trace the plains back to a component with an exposed solder joint and using an Ohm meter, see if they are the same potential or shorted to each other. If they are NOT, then the metal standoffs and metal connector case would provide a shorting path from one plain to the next if the solder mask were to be comprimised. Couple things you could do (if you want), replace the stand-offs with a non-feris type or plastic hardware. Or isolate the existing stand-offs with a material like mylar or some sort of plastic sheet under them. (I like to use old coffee can lids because they are flat and can be trimmed to whatever you want. ** also as expoxy forms because the 2 part I use won't stick to it**).

Another possiblity might be to locate an appropriatly sized enclosure to house the PCB (Mouser or Digi-Key or some similar online place). With the PCB ridgidly mounted, you could use panel mount I/O connectors mounted in the enclosure itself and that would help protect the board from Vibration at the connection points. If grounded properly, then from noise as well(I didn't even want to get into injecting noise in the plains). Depending on the enclosure selected, might make easier to install in the Minx.

Hopefully that wasn't too Nerdy. I you need more clarification, let me know.

I had fun in both services