Spindle/Tie Rod Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jerrod213 · 09-21-2011, 08:29 AM

Somewhat unique scenario... I want to get concurrence on my diagnosis/approach from some of the experts.

I've got a 1971 c10 which I'm replacing the calipers on. When I turn the wheels all the way to the right, there is some slop in the passenger side spindle/outer tie rod connection. With the wheels straight or turned all the way to the left, no slop.

Other info:

Passenger side spindle recently replaced with a junkyard part (I didn't pull... not entirely sure of origin)
5 lug rotors, 1.25" deep
No slop on the drivers side
Outer tie rod boot is different than I'm used to, my previous experience is with the rubber kind integral to the part (had a 94 Ranger in a past life). Looks like there is a lot of grease in and around the connection (boot may be split and failed).
Tie rod appears to be sound still (doesn't flop around).
New brake rotors, pads, and wheel bearings recently installed.

The castle nut was just barely tight. I could tighten the nut a 0.5-1 turns and it took out the slop. When I tighten the nut like this, the cotter pin no longer interferes with the castle nut. I used a wrench, but didn't torque it very hard at all.

Initially I was worried that the guys I had fix my truck used the wrong spindle. However, if I'm correct in my interpretation of other postings the control arm wouldn't fit on properly if they had tried to use a 73-87 spindle?

Therefore, I thought this must be a tie rod problem. The boot has probably worn and axial clearance increased. Since the tie rod still functions properly and I have new brake rotors, pads, and wheel bearings, I'd rather not go in and do a complete front end rebuild at this point. I thought I'd put a washer in to take out the slop and get on with my life (making sure tie rod is well lubed). This will allow the castle nut to be lightly tightened to take out the slop and also allow for proper castle nut/cotter pin fit-up.

Once other components wear out, I'll probably do a better build with new Moog joint components, new springs, shocks, etc...

09-21-2011, 08:29 AM	#1
jerrod213 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 2	Spindle/Tie Rod Question Somewhat unique scenario... I want to get concurrence on my diagnosis/approach from some of the experts. I've got a 1971 c10 which I'm replacing the calipers on. When I turn the wheels all the way to the right, there is some slop in the passenger side spindle/outer tie rod connection. With the wheels straight or turned all the way to the left, no slop. Other info: Passenger side spindle recently replaced with a junkyard part (I didn't pull... not entirely sure of origin) 5 lug rotors, 1.25" deep No slop on the drivers side Outer tie rod boot is different than I'm used to, my previous experience is with the rubber kind integral to the part (had a 94 Ranger in a past life). Looks like there is a lot of grease in and around the connection (boot may be split and failed). Tie rod appears to be sound still (doesn't flop around). New brake rotors, pads, and wheel bearings recently installed. The castle nut was just barely tight. I could tighten the nut a 0.5-1 turns and it took out the slop. When I tighten the nut like this, the cotter pin no longer interferes with the castle nut. I used a wrench, but didn't torque it very hard at all. Initially I was worried that the guys I had fix my truck used the wrong spindle. However, if I'm correct in my interpretation of other postings the control arm wouldn't fit on properly if they had tried to use a 73-87 spindle? Therefore, I thought this must be a tie rod problem. The boot has probably worn and axial clearance increased. Since the tie rod still functions properly and I have new brake rotors, pads, and wheel bearings, I'd rather not go in and do a complete front end rebuild at this point. I thought I'd put a washer in to take out the slop and get on with my life (making sure tie rod is well lubed). This will allow the castle nut to be lightly tightened to take out the slop and also allow for proper castle nut/cotter pin fit-up. Once other components wear out, I'll probably do a better build with new Moog joint components, new springs, shocks, etc...



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