More brake questions....power vs manual

[woodscavenger]

How do the brakes feel after converting from manual drum/drum to manual disc/drum? Does it still require the same force? Are the brakes more responsive even without the power boost? Do I still drive around super defensive because I have Armstrong manual steering and leg-strong manual brakes?

Below is the background for the issue since I have a 62 with manual tranny.

I have scoured the search engine and read tons of posts. I have a 62 with a 350SBC with 4spd manual tranny using the hydraulic clutch. For those that don't know the brake and clutch master cylinder are a mated set. I am going to convert to front disc. I have not decided whether to do a mid 70's crossmember transplant and switch to 5-lug front or use an aftermarket kit and keep the 6-lug front. No matter which way I go I have the main problem of the mated master cylinder. I have looked at Captain Fabs option which looks well engineered but then I am looking at $200 for the bracket then I still need the power booster/MC combo with proportioning valve so that makes another 200-300.

I am contemplated keeping the manual brakes. I can do a Wilwood clutch MC and a generic dual chamber brake MC. I am not sure of the clearances but think I can make it work.