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11-09-2012, 05:46 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Little River, SC
Posts: 255
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quick stock brake m/c question
on my 57, with stock brakes, fresh out of the field, I open the cover on the master, and find nothing but some congealed looking little pieces of trash in the dry bottom. I fill with fluid, crack open the rear bleeder and I start to pump the pedal.
Keep in mind, that I am accessing my master cylinder through the nature provided hatch (big rust hole in the floor), and can thus operate the pedal and view the m/c at the same time. the first few times I depress the brake pedal, the fluid level in the m/c rises (I assume from the pressure building up) and overflows. I do this a few times and now I have no movement in fluid whatsoever when I depress the pedal. I am getting no fluid anywhere. No, the pedal doesn't just sit on the floor, but it is spring loaded, so I don't expect that it would. I have tried to loosen the brake line, but it is rusted tight. Used a line wrench and it just started stripping. Big question here is: should I clip the line and try to get it out, in hopes that it is the line that is clogged up? Should I spend the time to get the m/c off the frame (mounting bolts are rusted solid) and rebuild it? Should I just suck it up and get a new m/c? Keep in mind that I am trying to do this as cheap as possible as it is close to xmas and I have NO extra funds. I am fine with the truck just sitting there, but my wife is not, and she wants it out of the driveway and into the garage, which I understand, as that was the initial agreement. However, I want it able to move in and out of the garage under it's own power, and be able to stop upon doing so. What is the most likely scenario? Is my m/c shot, or does that not usually happen with these? I know that I can get by with a rebuild if the cylinder bore isn't pitted or tore up, but part of me says if I am going to go that far, maybe I should just spend the $200-+ and get a proper booster and mounting bracket. I can probably pick up a hydroboost unit from the local jy, but then I am having to add in all kinds of extra crap like a power steering pump to run the booster. I am working with the stock 235, and would like to keep the truck as unmodified (read that as cheap) as possible.
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1955 Chevy 3100 Task Force Pro Street - Sold! 1957 Chevy 3100 Task Force "Rat Rod" a.k.a. SLOTH - Sold! 1971 C10 Longbed factory A/C all stock 350/350 1979 Jeep CJ7 - Build date on the day I was born! -Keeper 2004 Expedition - Family Hauler 2007 Accord - Wife's around towner; I have more but not enough lines to post them! |
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