Markeb01 Build Thread

[markeb01]

Thanks for the comments guys!

Originally Posted by DURG

Looking good. Put all the stuff you take off the motor and put it on Ebay as a package. Someone will buy it. I have even had good luck selling used engine components on there. I knew the stuff was good, but I was surprised so many other people were willing to bid and pay that much for it. I sold used cam and lifter set, pushrods, roller rockers etc. Turn that money right back around into more parts!

Sounds like a great plan. That would probably generate a lot more profit that 10 cents a pound at the recycler!

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

Mark, I just want to add something.. not criticism
The rotator cups, installed, were set at a certain seat pressure.
Taking off the thicker retainer and installing thinner retainers will affect your seat pressure. Low seat pressure will allow valve float.....
Even when two valve springs are sitting side by side, looking like identical twins, The tension of each spring can be very different.
Just a word of caution my friend.

Thanks for the input. I always appreciate your comments even when they are blunt. You know a lot more about this stuff than I do.

I think I’ll be okay though, because I replaced all the factory valve springs/retainers/keepers with the recommended compatible parts from Comp Cams. Multiple places in their literature they reinforce the number one cause of new cam failure is incorrect valve springs (which kind of surprised me). It seems a lot of people just buy the cam and slap it in a stock engine with unhappy results. In reading a bunch of other forums about new cams and valve springs, every single person said to buy the compatible springs from the cam manufacturer.

This morning the first task was to read up again on the best way to set the valve lash. There were also a bunch of videos on YouTube, one of which was particularly helpful. The first guy suggested doing it the way I always did back in the old days. Set the engine on #1 top dead center and set half of the valves. Turn the engine over to #6 and do the other half. It worked fine. But then I started thinking that this isn’t a stock cam, and the LCA isn’t the same and that might make a difference.

The most helpful video set the engine on #1 TDC then adjust both valves on each cylinder in firing order sequence watching for the intake lifter to descend to the base circle of the cam. It was super easy. I just chased the intake valves in sequence and as a result the engine only turned over once, so I wasn’t wiping all the lube off the cam/lifter surfaces.

One change I decided during the valve adjustment was replacing the Crane long slot rocker arms and going back to the GM originals. The Crane parts just didn’t feel right. Even at zero lash I could wobble them around almost off of the valve stem. The ball sockets for the push rods also looked undersize to me. Another feature I had never seen before in one of these replacement engines was rocker arms with somewhat self-aligning ridges built in. They don’t show up very well in this photo, but there are dimples outboard of the valve stem area on the GM rocker arm shown on the left. The smooth Crane item is on the right. Those ledges really do seem to add a lot of stability to the rocker arm/valve stem interface.



In this photo everything is adjusted and ready to go. It sure is easy with the intake manifold out of the way. Rather than wondering if I really was at zero lash, I just looked at the lifter to see if there was any plunger movement beneath the clip inside the lifter body.



And this shot shows the steel plug blocking the driver side dipstick which I won’t be using. It’s the silver dot between cylinders 5 & 7.



Covered up and ready to go back in the bag:



And just for giggles I popped on a pair or reproduction Corvette covers I won’t be using. I do think they look pretty cool though.



About the only left I can do is install the dipstick tube. It becomes somewhat vulnerable, but I’d rather put it in on the stand rather than have to deal with it after the engine is in the truck.

Once the gear drive is retrieved and installed, I can close up the front cover and pan, install the balancer, accessories and it’s ready to go. I may pull the hood tomorrow and get started on removing the shifter, etc as I will be pulling the transmission out with the engine.