Finally began reviving my '71 C20. Need some NV3500 swap guidance! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Gumby'sC20 · 05-05-2013, 06:34 PM

Hey everyone!

It's been years since I posted last, and in the meantime, things went downhill - and back uphill for my '71 C20.

About 2 years ago, the Goodwrench 350 replacement crate motor decided to finally give up, and spin a rod bearing. The truck sat for a while after that, and a few months ago, we began reviving the drivetrain.

A quick summary of what's going on with the engine: It's now a 355 block, which will be equipped with an RV cam (Melling MTC-1), Edelbrock Performer intake, Z28 valve springs (I know that's a pretty slang term) and headers. I plan on running the stock Q-Jet for now. Everything else about the engine will be stock.

Where I need some help is with the 5 speed swap I'm going to run. I picked up a 1993+ NV3500 5 speed to replace the 4 speed Muncie SM465 my truck came with from the factory.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe I'll be able to reuse my flywheel (that the Muncie utilized), and run a clutch kit from a 1993+ 5.0L V8 C1500.

I'm unsure of what starter to use, and any input on that would be great!

Also, The transmission didn't come with the clutch fork pivot ball hardware and I'm unsure what to use for that, or where to get it.

Next, it's clear that I'll have to use a 32-spline slip yolk on the output shaft of the NV3500 (they don't accommodate a bolt-on unit), but I'm not sure which one to get to work with the 1350 U-Joint my truck uses (if I'm even correct on the U-Joint #).

Knowing that I'll be using a slip yolk up front at the trans, does that mean that the rest of the 2-piece driveshaft will have to be altered (aside from length, which will need to be altered)? In other words: if I recall correctly, the rear driveshaft on my truck that bolts to the 4:10 rear-end is also a slip system near the driveshaft carrier bearing, and I heard that if running a slip yoke, the rest of the driveshaft needs to remain firmly assembled together (read: no additional slip points used in the driveshaft assembly).

I think that's enough questions for now. Hopefully some of you will be able to help me on this! Thanks a ton, in advance!

05-05-2013, 06:34 PM	#1
Gumby'sC20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Binghamton, N.Y. Posts: 116	Finally began reviving my '71 C20. Need some NV3500 swap guidance! Hey everyone! It's been years since I posted last, and in the meantime, things went downhill - and back uphill for my '71 C20. About 2 years ago, the Goodwrench 350 replacement crate motor decided to finally give up, and spin a rod bearing. The truck sat for a while after that, and a few months ago, we began reviving the drivetrain. A quick summary of what's going on with the engine: It's now a 355 block, which will be equipped with an RV cam (Melling MTC-1), Edelbrock Performer intake, Z28 valve springs (I know that's a pretty slang term) and headers. I plan on running the stock Q-Jet for now. Everything else about the engine will be stock. Where I need some help is with the 5 speed swap I'm going to run. I picked up a 1993+ NV3500 5 speed to replace the 4 speed Muncie SM465 my truck came with from the factory. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe I'll be able to reuse my flywheel (that the Muncie utilized), and run a clutch kit from a 1993+ 5.0L V8 C1500. I'm unsure of what starter to use, and any input on that would be great! Also, The transmission didn't come with the clutch fork pivot ball hardware and I'm unsure what to use for that, or where to get it. Next, it's clear that I'll have to use a 32-spline slip yolk on the output shaft of the NV3500 (they don't accommodate a bolt-on unit), but I'm not sure which one to get to work with the 1350 U-Joint my truck uses (if I'm even correct on the U-Joint #). Knowing that I'll be using a slip yolk up front at the trans, does that mean that the rest of the 2-piece driveshaft will have to be altered (aside from length, which will need to be altered)? In other words: if I recall correctly, the rear driveshaft on my truck that bolts to the 4:10 rear-end is also a slip system near the driveshaft carrier bearing, and I heard that if running a slip yoke, the rest of the driveshaft needs to remain firmly assembled together (read: no additional slip points used in the driveshaft assembly). I think that's enough questions for now. Hopefully some of you will be able to help me on this! Thanks a ton, in advance!



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