Scott's 1972 Chevy K-20. A place to start.

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by gerfunken

And having hit save before I finished....

This is one that I really was planning on going to a junkyard for. The problem (in this case) with going with the purchase new option is that I'm missing parts. The new order doesn't include the skid plate or any of the fueling neck options, so I'll see what I can do to figure that out. On that note, any personal recommendations on junkyards for american iron around the Phoenix area?

I use a few right in the area of 27th ave and Buckeye. Ecology is north of Buckeye on the west side of the road just north of the tracks. There is one next door on the south side of the tracks, but I forget the name of it. I usually start with this one, then Ecology, then I hit the one at 25th ave and Buckeye (used to be Grand Used Auto Parts years ago). They are all right off I-17 and usually have what I need and they are closer than the ones on Broadway. If you strike out, from 19th ave to 35th ave on Broadway, there are approximately a thousand wrecking yards on both sides of the road.

Originally Posted by gerfunken

Ok, more research last night, putting my internet searching powers to the test... (and a reference if anyone else can use it.)

Ok, I've been trying to piece together the steering/hydro-boost components.

It looks like the hydro-boost in the Chevy (starting in 82 with their Diesel trucks) is running the same lines as the Dodge. They're all 16mm male to 18mm male O-ring hoses. Dodge started running the hydro-boost in 1997, it wasn't an option in '94. So, I should be able to get the parts to cover from the power steering pump to the hydro-boost (ACDELCO Part # 36352440) and from the hydro-boost to the steering gear (Dodge: ACDELCO Part # 36352340) or (Chevy: ACDELCO Part # 36357640).

In that set-up, I should be able to run the GM hydro-booster (ACDELCO Part # 14PB4147) with a new master cylinder (A-1 CARDONE Part # 101863). I also found power booster brackets to handle the hydro-boost that are custom made for the 67-72 body style.
Captinfab's Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket
Captinfab's Hydroboost Mounting Plates


The only thing that this leaves out is the power steering box. The 1972 2wd power steering box is listed as a 3/8" input, so the metrics won't work. That being said, I saw that the part number (A-1 CARDONE Part # 275004) covers from 1968-86, and I've seen reference that they all have the same bolt patterns. It looks like they switched over from standard to metric in '81, so pushing it to the 86, and verifying that it's metric should be good. I have read that the pitman arm from the Dodge should work, but can't verify that until I get the steering box in.

With that, I'm hoping it will be a bolt in operation.

Here we go. You *can* use hydroboost (HB from now on) hoses for a square body Chevy, but I don't think you are going to want to. They are long. REALLY long. Almost loop them around the front axle long. That and the one from the motor to the HB is going to be even longer than it should be because the power steering pump is so far back on the Cummins when compared to any V-8 Chevy motor--even the I-6's. I only looked at those momentarily and moved on. I first used some goofy C3500HD application that worked kind of ok at best. I had to re-tweak some bends and adjust others, but the thing I liked about those hoses is they came off the passenger side of the HB instead of the driver side like the square bodies had. If I had it to do over again, I would do exactly what I ended up doing in the end and that is make all of the hoses out of Teflon lined steel braided hoses. They must be Teflon lined. The less expensive rubber lined hose will not hold up for very long (I learned this years ago by trying it). The best part of this setup is it is permanent. If built correctly, you should never have to change a Teflon lined hose due to age. Ever. Now the price of admission is not real low, but you get to make EXACTLY what YOU want. Not settling for something that gets the job done but looks like crap or doesn't fit just right. None of that.

One other option is to get the fittings off of some old hoses (wrecking yard is a good source), take them to RMACC or the Parker Store and have them weld on new ferrules, buy some quality hydraulic hose, take it all home, set it up, mark everything for clock position and take it back and have them crimp the ferrules. This gets it done with quality hydraulic hose, you get to run them how you'd like, but they are not a permanent solution. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy replacement power steering hoses from ANY parts store. They are all made by one company and they are all crap. They are not even trying to make quality. Just a part that fits the vehicle and makes them money.

Hydroboost. You can use pretty much any GM hydroboost, but I like the mounting plates from the C/K trucks from 88-99(ish). The plate that mounts them to the firewall shares two holes with our trucks. Take it off the HB, drill two holes in it, flip it over, open the hole in the firewall a fuzz (for nut clearance) and bolt it on. There is a minor length difference in the actuator rod, but it isn't tough to figure out.

Steering boxes. '79 and down is standard thread inverted flare. '80 and up is o-ring with metric threads. They are interchangeable in all regards except for the LINE threads. The pitman shaft on the Dodge is NOT the same as a 4wd GM box. The Dodge uses a fully splined pitman shaft with four master splines whereas the GM box uses a pitman shaft that is approximately half splined and has a pinch-bolt through the pitman arm (and corresponding groove in the pitman shaft) instead of a nut that threads on the bottom of the pitman shaft. A 2wd GM box has a fully threaded pitman shaft with four master splines also, but I am not sure they are the same size. I think they are, but that's about as sure as I get on the subject. (2wd and 4wd GM boxes are identical except for the pitman shaft and yes, some are interchangeable, i.e. use a 2wd pitman shaft in a 4wd box) So, pick a box that has the features you need and go with it. If you decide to make your own hoses with the steel braided lines, you can keep your current box and just get inverted flare to JIC (AN) fittings and you're done. Another nice bonus to making your own. If you decide to change the box down the road and you go with a later model metric fitting box at that time, just get the two adapter fittings that go from 16mm and 18mm to JIC (AN). It's that simple with the braided lines.

One other recommendation, use a remote power steering reservoir. I used one from PSC that has an integral filter in it, but even a stock GM one could be modified to work. Run the return lines from the HB and steering box to the remote reservoir for MUCH(!!) easier bleeding of the system. I also recommend a cooler and filter in the system. How you do it (if you do it) is up to you, but the PSC stuff, while not cheap, is well engineered and constructed for ease of installation, service and very durable. Read through the tech tips section on the PSC site to avoid some easy mistakes (like the ones I made). They also have quality steering boxes that are right in line with other "good" rebuilt units (beyond parts tore quality).