Dana 60 Rotor replacement

[Mr. 250r]

Well after i bought this 89 i noticed under hard braking it would pull to the right pretty decent, so i just decided maybe a cut and some pads and then it slowly spiraled out of control.

Firstly after i took the wheel off i noticed the rotor and 2 real nice gouges in it although the pictures don't make it out to be that bad its pretty noticeable while i could get it cut down i decided on new rotors and pads and ill have these cut and waiting around in case my suburban needs them. The brake pads were also pretty much almost gone on the outside of the right side so since i could not find a D60 rotor replacement guide i decided to make one.

This will also cover the hub bearings/seals/races and while i did this i left the brake line on the caliper and just set it on the king pin.

Starting out, take off the tire if you can't manage this sell your truck. Then check your brakes and see what they look like, here is what mine looked like.



After inspecting your pads you need to take out the allen bolt on the lower backside of the caliper



Then take a punch of whatever you desire to knock the 2 caliper locking pieces out, here is it half way out



Then you will end up with these 2 pieces so don't lose them



Now this is where you take off the caliper I've done it two ways the first time i lift the bottom out after a good amount of work, the second time i took the top out first with the hub on but able to fall off, do it either which way you desire.

Now after you get the caliper off you will have this, check your rotors, pads whatever you want but now we go even farther. Firstly though here are my pads and rotor.




Now onward to take off the locking hubs and hub



Take off the 6 screw holding the locking hub on



You will then have something like this, don't mind the two screws i put back in ill explain that later. You must take out the big snap ring that sits on the inside of the hub around the outer edge and then the small one on the end of the axle.



Now here is why those two screws were put back in as you just use them to pull out the rest of the locking hub, easy as that



Now you have this so there is a 3 lock/washer setup going on here and you will need a special socket which is NOT the same as the 10b/44 one just in case anyone wondered. You use the socket to take off the first lock nut



Now there is a washer with holes in it that connect to the back nut so you need to get it off however you choose. I use snap ring pliers with those brass ends or whatever and grab to holes and pull it off the other lock nut



After that washer is off you take the socket again and take off the last lock nut and you will basically end up with this



This shows the little nipple that holds the middle hole'd washer in place


Now all the hard work has paid off, at this point you should be able to pull the hub and rotor assembly right off and be careful its somwhat heavy if your not holding it right and the outer bearing will fall out if you tip it backwards *Locking hub side to ground, outer bearing will fall out as pictured*



At this point you can check for possible spindle damage or check the dust cover or whatever you decide maybe even go for a kingpin rebuild while your here lol



I should be updating this tomorrow with the whole pressing studs out, new seals, re packing the bearings and hopefully putting it all back together