Help me build a Raptor killer

[C. M. Wolf]

Please, please.. let me know if you can find a real "Crated 427 RAT" engine,(or ANY real crated GM-RAT,(Research and Technology Div.), engine, if you do find a RAT engine, you'll have more $ in the engine alone than the whole truck put together)!
Those things were snatched up by every hot-rod'er & racer that owned a Chevy or GMC as fast as the news of a person selling one came out.

...

Screw the Raptor, build it to take on Vets for pinks...

Hunt down a small block, 4bolt main engine,(that hasn't been rebuilt to death... new is always good.), 350, 327, etc.. (HD50 oil pump, & AC-Delco HD water pump.) {you might wanna start this all off on a 3/16" GM cassis/frame instead of the basic 1/8", so there's less flex... if possible. the added weight per strength is far worth it. ...or I suppose you could always "Box" your 1/8" GM frame.}
Special ground RV cam, crane valve train w/ stellite valves & hardened seats, ported & polished heads,(if you can't find someone, trusted, that can do your head-work right.. stay home 'til you can).
Cloyes True-Roller timing chain.
Holley 700 or 750 duel pumper carb,(I liked the Edelbrock 0-50 Hi-Per intake better than the Holley one. Also make sure the air filter is oversized so it breaths good.. might as well add a very good electronic fuel pump while you're at it).
If you don't run a good set of tuned headers & equally good non-restrictive turbo muffs, you're wasting time & money & the engine simply won't breath right.
Mallory HYFIRE 6AL ignition with the Mallory performance Unilite Electronic distributor. (might as well dump the alternator and convert to a magneto system instead).
The Hurst/Tremec TKO 5 Speed trans,(may not have to install a scattershield, bolts to most GM bell housings).
This way you can keep a std GM Dana full-float rear end,(or install the 3/4 ton-eight-lug so you can still use the same dif-carrier on a slightly higher gear ratio & still run tall/wide rims & tires without snapping axles or eating ring & pinion teeth.. I'd recommend Zoom-Gears, but I heard they've been sold to someone.. ?). {now the key here is to correctly ratio your rear-gears to the engine torque & trans ratio, done right, puts that power direct to the road where it belongs. Whatever ya do, go as high a set of rear gears as the diff-carrier will safely fit.. 4/10s will kill your top end & defeat the Hurst trans.}

Now, you'll only be running premium gas and you'll need to get your foot into this set up at least twice a month just to keep the carbon from choking your engine... but you'll most likely don this any way.

...

Suspension is a different subject.. are ya looking 2x4 or 4x4?



Michael