'66 Longbed 327 w/AC project

[cortcomp]

Between the second coat of stain and the first of clear, you could see brown dots and splotches where i apparently didn't wipe all the wet stain off.

Rather than use lacquer thinner and risk changing the color, i used fine steel wool and those areas cleaned right off. Well, i thought i had all the steel wool fuzzies off those couple boards, but after checking the first coat of clear i could see and feel the fuzzies on those couple boards (and i mean one coat, i didn't realize how low on clear i was so they all gone one coat all sides, a heavy coat, not three medium coats.)

A quick run of the block and 1000 gritt over a piece of wood then some red 3m scuff pad (so as not to sand through the single coat of clear) and everything was clean again. I wasn't too worried because of how dark the wood is, you wouldn't see it against it and after 10+ coats of clear.

I figure quick quick block both sides then 3m scuff all over all the pieces, and 3 really nice coats of clear all around. Then, after doing that 3-4 times with a day of drying in between, lastly i'll probably, depending how little orange peel there is, block 1500 then do that DA system on one board and polish it with the three foam pads + polish. Then i'll do one without sanding and see if you can tell. If so, i'll sand, if not, i'll just buff. I could block all the way to 2500, just more work than the DA.

And, because i'm an a$$(#*$, i'll probably do both sides polished so i can tell people to look underneath to see how nice it looks, because apparently i am one step from a trailer queen with this one.

This pic shows the color a bit better and you can see that if you wanted texture, you could stop after the first coats of clear and still get some shine.

This jig is IT! once you have the boards ready, in about 1/2 hour you could have three pretty thick coats on and be cleaning the gun, and have gotten all size sides at the same time.