5/8 static drop parts list – comments/suggestions please

[kitsbeach]

Here is my list and a few questions I have. Going for a 5/8 static drop.

I'm currently running a 6cyl with three-on-the-tree but I want to make it handle and one day will do a LSx swap so I might go a little overboard here in preparation for later.

Planning on running 15” steelies so I am limited to smaller brakes.

I want to buy everything ahead of time to minimize downtime, so if there is anything I have missed please let me know.



1. CPP Modular 2” Drop Spindles

2. 3” drop springs (any brand?)

3. Tubular control arms (CPP?). I suppose I only need the uppers to get the
improved adjustments (or is it the lowers?) but I’ll probably do both for the looks.

4. 12” disk brakes (will these fit in my 15” steelies? Is this as large as I can go?). Do people usually buy kits from CPP or somewhere, or just buy stock stuff from regular auto suppliers.? What little pieces/kit will I need to have everything?

5. Power brake booster (which one?). Thinking I’ll go fairly stock right now for disk/drum combo. I will likely upgrade to hydroboost when I do the LS swap.

6. Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1179/overview/

7. Stock-style master cylinder (which bore size for disk/drum?)

8. New front brake lines (where to buy?)

9. Front sway bar (any brand?). Want to match with nolimit rear bar.

10. Front shock relocate brackets?

11. Shocks - looking for good/great handling at medium price (what brand and what length/part number.?)


I’m choosing modular drop spindles because they keep the wheels tucked in better and should look more 1967-like. They may also allow a little more clearance with my 15” rims (don’t know if this is true).

I want Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve because it sounds like the stock replacement ones are junk and I only want to do this job once. Will I need custom brake lines for it.? Or should I plan on bending some lines?

Do I need new brake lines 1972-style (in front of crossmember) instead of my 1967-style (behind crossmember).?

Can I buy normal length front shocks if I use a relocate bracket.?

If I buy new control arms to go with modular spindles should I specify newer ball joints or stay ’67 throughout.?

On the rear I want an 8” drop. Planning to use 2” blocks and 6” lowering springs along with No Limit panhard, sway bar and shock relocate kit. Matching shocks to front of truck. And a c-notch of course.

If I have missed anything I’d appreciate knowing about it. I want to have all the parts in hand before I start tearing the truck apart because I like to keep the downtime to a minimum.