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View Poll Results: what light setup looks the best?
#1 current LED setup, Hella Rallye 4000 Compact Xenon pencil 8 29.63%
#2 current LED setup, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon Euro Beam 1 3.70%
#3 BD Squadron wide cornering, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon Euro 1 3.70%
#4 BD Squadron w.-crn., Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon driving, Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon pencil 2 7.41%
#5 BD Squadron wide cornering, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon euro, Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon pencil 2 7.41%
#6 BD Squadron wide cornering, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon euro, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon pencil 0 0%
#7 HIDDEN BD Squadron wide crn, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon euro, Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon pencil 1 3.70%
#8 HIDDEN BD Squadron wide cornering, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon euro, Hella Rallye 4000 Xenon pencil 2 7.41%
#9 BD Squadron wide crn, Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon driving, Hella Rallye 4000 Comp. Xenon pencil 9 33.33%
current LED setup 2 7.41%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

 
 
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Old 01-05-2016, 04:26 PM   #11
K20chevy
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Pittsfield, ME
Posts: 477
Re: 78 K20 custom delux "modern meets vintage" build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by slotard View Post
Very nice build. Do you have any more info on the rear brakes? I'd like to put discs on my 14FF soon, hadn't heard of using Dodge stuff before.
Thanks!

Ok, so where do I start. I did get rear brakes from a Dodge Ram 3500 single rear wheel truck (2008) with calipers, rotors and the whole backing plate/ebrake setup.

On a side note, the chevy brakes from a 2500 or 3500 SRW are easier to adapt, but they are smaller, so I went with the larger Dodge ones due to my massive F550 front brakes.

From the RAM backing plates, I made a template for the mounting flange and had a friend put that into a CAD model. Then I had it laser cut out of 1/2" steel plate. (I might still have the CAD file somewhere)

The wheel hubs need to be turned down just a hair for the rotors to lip over them. (my hubs were the drum behind hub deal)
Then you have to bolt everything together and mock up the position and tack the brackets into place on the axle tube.

Take it all apart, weld the brackets into place. I cut off two corners on the old mounting flange for the drums to make room for the ebrake cable. If I were to do it again, I would completely cut the old flange off. Looks better and gives you more room to work with.

two driver side ebrake cables from the dodge actually fit right onto the original coupler.

The only hard thing was to turn some small adamter rings to put between the hub and brake rotor hub bore to have them hub centric. Maybe I didnīt need to do that, but I just wanted to make sure the rotors run perfectly true. I had a local machine shop make them up for 10 bucks.

The soft line from the frame to the t on the diff is one for the chevy truck, the hard line is the ine from the dodge, as are the short rubber lines (havenīt found those in braided SS yet) that go to the caliper.

just make sure, when you do tack the brackets onto the axle tube to check over and over to make sure they are straight, it is hard to change anything when they are burned in all the way.

Hope this helps. If you need more info, let me know.
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78 Chevy K20 Custom Deluxe, build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=612104

68 Chevy K20 Panel truck, build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...41#post7263441
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