Performance vs Cost Trade off for Street Driving (No Limit Parts example)

[Skippy77]

Sorry, this is pretty long.

So there is no question that the more you are willing to spend on your suspension, the better performance you can expect to get, but at what point does the return on that investment start to severely diminish for us guys who are primarily running the streets? It's like 600 hp on street tires, whats the point unless you like to see a lot of smoke. Or does it never really diminish and I should stop crying and make it rain money in the name of good handling? This is the question I'm currently trying to answer for myself and I would love to get feedback from people who are more knowledgeable than me on the subject!

For this discussion I'm keeping it to coils or coilovers, and new OE brake parts in each example to keep this about suspension and not braking. I'm using ECE (because they seem to be an extremely popular "lower cost" route), and No Limit (because they seem to be a popular "higher cost" route). These are the routes I am looking at currently, you could probably substitute many other well respected companies in these examples and come up with pretty similar numbers. In my case, because of the very poor condition of the existing parts, my starting cost may be higher than others.

So Option 1 (Near Factory suspension rebuild with 4/6 Drop) - $3,043
- ECE 4/6 Drop Kit - $800
- ECE Trailing Arms + Crossmember - $690
- ECE Front End Rebuild Kit (Moog Components) - $525
- ECE OE Replacement Brake Calipers & Rotors - $290
- ECE Rear Drum Rebuild Kit - $239
- ECE Power Steering Box (Quick Ratio) - $374
- Consumables - $125

So for a little over $3,000 I get a 4/6 drop, all new trailing arms, all new bushing, all new OE brake components and a quick ratio power steering set up. Probably results in a OK driving, slightly better than factory ride? Now what is the next step up for most bang for the buck? The 2 most obvious routes to me are adding swaybars, or replacing the KYB shocks with Ridetech shocks. Either option adds about $500.

So Option 2 (Near Factory suspension with 4/6 Drop with Swaybars OR Ridetech RQ shocks) - $3,500-$3,600
- All parts in Option 1
- No Limit/ECE Swaybars - $430, OR Ridetech RQ shocks - $640

So for $500-$600 bucks I've added swaybars, or Ridetech shocks. Probably a pretty sound investment in the handling department either way? If I wanted to add both I'd be looking at about $4,000, and at that price the No Limit Trailing Arm System starts making sense...

So Option 3 (Factory Crossmember with Performance parts) - $4,008
- ECE Front End Rebuild Kit - $525
- ECE 2.5" Drop Spindles - $249
- ECE Front Lowering Springs - $114
- Ridetech RQ Shocks (Front) - $270
- ECE OE Replacement Brake Calipers & Rotors - $290
- ECE Front Swaybar - $188
- ECE Power Steering Box (Quick Ratio) - $374
- No Limit Trailing Arm System - $1,395
- ECE Rear Drum Rebuild Kit - $239
- No Limit Rear Sway Bar
- Consumables - $125

OK, so another $500 jump and I have a sweet long travel coilover rear suspension and ridetech shocks up front with swaybars holding the corners together. Probably a pretty good street machine at this point? So is this where it makes sense to stop? Or is going for coilovers in the back first the wrong move completely? Would I have been better served to go with a Wide Ride IFS in the front and stock suspension in the rear? Then you have the final option...

So Option 4 (Complete No Limit System) - $5,593
- No Limit Wide Ride IFS - $3,595
- No Limit Trailing Arm System - $1,395
- ECE Rear Drum Rebuild Kit - $239
- No Limit Rear Sway Bar
- Consumables - $125

$1,500 bucks later I have what is certainly a bad ass suspension. But is it more bad ass than makes sense for a street queen? I don't know! If I could get some feedback from people with a whole lot more expertise than me I would greatly appreciate it!

-Brian "Skippy"