Turn indicator switch replacement - lots of pictures

[djeCST]

As part of my rewiring project I needed to replace the cracked turn signal switch. Searching here for words of wisdom yielded some information, but nothing that shared a start-to-finish description of the job. As it turns out the project isn’t very difficult, but there are a few things you need to know in order to be successful. Note that everything here is for a stock, non-tilt column. I don’t know what differences there may be for a tilt column.

You will need to remove the steering wheel first. My steering wheel was already off of the column, so I’m going to skip that part – there are plenty of good threads here for that.

With the wheel removed, this is what you see:



I have already removed the turn signal and shift levers.

You will need to disconnect the turn signal wiring from the dash harness. First, unplug the semi-circular connector. Next, remove each of the wires from the connector, noting their position (or you can match them up to the other half of the connector still attached to the dash wiring). Take a tiny screwdriver, stiff wire or paper clip and push it in just alongside the terminal on both sides the plug, then gently pull back on the wire. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the little clip that holds the connector in place. Be patient.



You will probably need to bend the little tabs back out in order to reinstall the wire.



The three screws in the 12, 5 and 8 o’clock positions secure the switch. One by one, back them out almost all the way but not so much that you can remove them. You’ll need to click the switch down to the left turn position to get at the one on the top. Once they are all loose, grab the turn signal housing and turn in counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn.



You can now pull the housing with the switch still attached off of the steering shaft. There’s a bearing that sits on top of the assembly, so you may need to tug on it a little.



Now you can remove the three screws that hold the switch in place and remove it. My 1970 C10 has the small emergency flasher stalk, not the larger knob that later model trucks have, so you should be able to simply tip the whole thing out. I think on later models you need to first unscrew the flasher knob, but I don’t have any first-hand experience with that.

Remove the switch and this is what’s left – the upper bearing housing.


From here it’s a pretty simple matter of reversing the procedure. Install your new switch on to the upper bearing housing, lining up the little stud on the back of the switch with the recessed hold on the housing:





Give ‘em a good squeeze together – they should fit pretty tight. You want them to fit together with no gaps.



Thread the wires from the switch through the turn signal housing and tip the switch back in.





Replace the three screws; thread them in just until they are flush with the back of the housing.

Here’s a view from the back side of the housing showing the cutout where the wires go. You can also see how the screws that hold the switch are just flush with the back. Note the three thumbnail-shaped cutouts on the inside edge of the housing – we’ll get to those in a second.



Thread the wires down the column, through the shift lever housing.



The column has three little bumps on the tube that help lock the housing in place, here’s one of them:



Take the switch housing and line it up about 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise from it’s final location. One of those little thumbnail cutouts will line up with one of the little bumps on the column tube. You may need to wiggle it around a little, but it will eventually drop in to place. Rotate the housing clockwise until it locks into place. Tighten up the three screws and you’re almost done.



Grease the bearing if it needs it and slide it back on to the column shaft. It fits just with finger pressure; the steering wheel nut holds everything together.





Route your wires, plug them back in to the connector and reinstall your steering wheel. Job done!

Hopefully this helps.