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Old 07-25-2016, 10:36 AM   #1
ubtripn
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,280
Motor Temp Equilibrium Point-Cooling Question

I have been working quite a bit on my 68 with a new crate engine trying to achieve one thing - NEVER HAVING TO BABYSIT THE TEMP GAUGE. I have a new 4 row rad/clutch fan, shroud and t-stat.

First - I was running too hot with a 180 stat when it is over 90 out here.

Second - I removed the stat to see what the engine would naturally level out at. It works it's way up to 170 and is consistent unless I am sitting in traffic and it is hot out.

Third - I put a 160 stat in that opens around 170 and holds it there unless I am stopped for 10 minutes or so while 90 or greater out. If it is above 90 I run a consistent 180 when moving. We are going to hit above 100 this week.

I put the stat in so it would warm up quicker. I also didn't want to sin and not be boiling off these vapers and sludge that I have heard about. I also put a pusher fan on to augment the system for sitting in traffic - comes on at 185 and shuts off at 170. It is connected between 6 and 8.

I think I have found the balance but I do not want to wear the engine out prematurely. It is not injected nor does it have vortec heads. Shouldn't averaging 170 be ok for my engine life?

(I should have started with checking the accuracy of the temp gauge. Laser on t-stat housing reads 20 degrees cooler. I still don't know which to believe, my mechanical in the block or the coolant temp at the housing.)
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