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04-12-2020, 12:20 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Hudson Valley, New York
Posts: 649
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DIY: Dash vinyl replacement
After seeing a post by another user (Astro-balls) Mitch, I decided to reach out and tackle something I've never even attempted before,...repairing my original cracked dash pad. I was also in luck that Mitch has the Fawn vinyl material, so I went ahead.
Here is the original referenced thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=793182 Overall, pretty easy to do. On a scale of 1-10, I'll give it about a 6-7. For the record, I am NOT an upholstery guy, this is the first time I've attempted anything like this. The net, if I can do it, ...you can too Removing the original vinyl: Take your time and use a HEAT GUN. Get the old vinyl where it's TOO hot to touch (wear gloves). It will soften up like 'stretchy rubber', and literally peel off like a banana peel. You must get it HOT enough, don't underestimate, ...HEAT is your friend here. The goal obviously is to prevent damaging the foam core. It's easy, trust me, but you have to heat it up good. Applying Gorilla Glue: I actually used a business card to spread it over the voids I wanted to fill. It sits overnight to dry and expands. Sand/smooth it out, simple enough. I did do a second application in one area to get it better. Applying the vinyl: Like I said, I'm no upholstery guy, so maybe others have a better way. First I laid the pad atop the vinyl, I then used a sharpie to mark a centerline, then marked an area on the vinyl that corresponded with an area on the pad. I applied glue only to those areas. Starting at the forward edge of the dash pad (noting it is flipped upsidedown as you do this) I worked one section at a time. Eventually wrapping over the 'nose' of the pad (where the 4 philips screws go). The ends were the trickiest part since it tapers down and curves. Even if you have slight crease on the ends, they abut the pillar post area, so you won't see it anyway. The four phillips dash pad screws: I had a tough time getting the recessed area to stay 'stuck' where the screws would go. The heads on the factory four screws are so small I was concerned they would pull through the material. I decided to change those for screws with four black philips screws with washers attached. They worked perfectly. (see last photo for side by side with screws) Something I thought of (after the fact) was to (temporarily) screw four washers into those recesses while the glue is drying. That way, once dry, the material should be flat/flush to the metal dash backing. Anyway, I hope that helps anyone else 'on the fence' about tackling this. It was pretty straight-forward. Thanks to the prior threads and posts that gave me a bump in confidence to tackle this. Of course, Thank You to Mitch (aka Palo Alto Upholstery ) who actually had Fawn vinyl too Kevin K My original cracked Fawn color dash pad: Removal of old vinyl: Bare foam: Applying Gorilla glue to areas that needed building up: Sander used to smooth/form cured Gorilla glue (60 grit belt): (Noting I also did use a sanding block with 180 grit for finer cleanup) All repaired and ready for new vinyl: Applied glue in phases, starting on the forward edge of dash first. Contact cement applied to both dash and vinyl, wait 10-15min, then attach... Working my way around, ...almost there. Finished product: Reinstalled... Factory phillips screws next to replacements I used: Links to Glue and Adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/00271-Weldwoo...s%2C151&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Origi...6706182&sr=8-4
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'68 C20 Utility 396 4sp (BuildThread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=806904 ) '68 C10 50th |
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