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#9 | ||
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A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Currently, Alabama
Posts: 5,934
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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![]() Made some progress on the front tubs: got the passenger side bolted in and fitting nicely. Also started the process of modifying the drivers side and after removing and reinstalling the fender and inner at least 37,000 times, I have finally got it fitting the way it’s supposed to and have the panel tacked together using my new toy. Finish weld, grind, and hopefully body work tomorrow, then paint sometime in the future?... The new Hobart welder was long overdue. I don’t know how I’ve survived this long without it. When I welded the passenger side fender the Eastwood was being weird and blowing through. When I did the exhaust it would not penetrate and just piled up. When I welded the bed floor mounts it made embarrassing looking not so sticky boogers. Last straw. There was no way I was attempting to mod this fender with that “welder” after how it had been acting. The difference between the Hobart and the Eastwood junk is astounding. Smooth as butter, making all the right bacon noises and nice little puddles...
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) Sporadically present, non-dues paying member of the world-famous Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC). |
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