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Old 02-27-2023, 02:23 PM   #18
theastronaut
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,896
Re: 1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickysnickers View Post
Man your work is phenomenal!!!
Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by joesscamaro View Post
The work you do and the way you document it, is awesome. Most of the time all we see is just a before and after picture but you document it in a way that the reader almost feels like they're there with you. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I do have a couple of questions:

1) Your first picture in post #345: You were able to hammer and dolly that gap enough to close most of that relief cut, except for the small patch that you made. Probably my lack of experience, but that seemed like a decent size gap...is there no oil canning or anything in that area after you stretched the metal like that? Don't take this question as me questioning your method...I'm solely asking for my own knowledge.

2) Can you describe your ospho wash to the underside of the hood? Ospho...red scotch brite...water rinse?

Thanks Joe, I like doing build threads like this so the customer can see exactly what he's getting, and if the truck were ever sold the next owner can look through the build thread and not have any questions about how well it was built. It's also good advertisement for our shop, the owner of this truck saw the build thread of the last '66 F100 we built and wanted us to build his.


1- I only stretched the side to the left in the pic to match the profile of the right side, that brought it up to the height of the right side. There's no stress/tension in the panel that way that which would cause oil canning. If I tried to just twist the left side up and the right side down to match then it would have tension/stress in the metal along the seam that could cause oil canning. You can see some of the hammer marks on the left side in the second pic, and how even they are along to stretch the metal and add surface area to raise that side to match the other.

2- I use a red scuff pad, scuffing every few minutes to make sure the surface is staying wet. I usually do an initial hard scrub and wire brush any heavier spots if needed to get it 95% clean, then rinse and reapply Ospho and really go over and inspect before scuffing again while the Ospho is clear/clean so its easier to see any spots you missed. This time is just a quick wash and thorough rinse, then dry it as quickly as possible to prevent it from flash rusting. Cold water and keeping it out of the sunlight will keep flash rust to a minimum. If if flash rusts a fine wire brush on a drill will clean it right off. DA sanded surfaces will stay cleaner than blasted surfaces, the rougher surface texture will flash rust much faster.
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