Quote:
Originally Posted by mr48chev
I'm late to the party but unless you removed the distributor for some reason it shouldn't be out of time. You are getting several wild A-- guesses here from guys trying to sound like they know something but proving that they don't.
Several GM in the dash switches do not send power to the coil when you are cranking the engine and even with the HEI you need a resistor bypass wire.
On my 71 I bypassed the old ignition wire from switch to coil entirely and ran a wire (proper gauge for HEI with correct terminal) and haven't had any issues with it. I just taped the end of the old ignition wire and folded it over and taped it up.
I ran the wire to the HEI from one of the two IGN hot pins on the fuse block.
Personal experience says that a regular female slide connector on the ign post of the Hei can and will loosen up enough to loose contact going down the road. Usually at the wrong time when you are in your good clothes headed to work in the rain. You have to have that correct terminal rather than a female slide.
Before you do anything else make sure that you have power to the distributor when you are actually cranking the engine.
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Yes I agree. I took a stab at this in post #11 and was corrected about the yellow wire (which I stand corrected on) what I meant to say is the resistor wire (used on every chevrolet points distributor I ever worked on). I disconnect the resistor wire and tape it up —- THEN I connect a new lead to the unfused ign terminal in the fuse block under the dash and run that to the coil. On the many restorations I have done this has always been how I did it and never had a problem.