55.2-59 Ol' Blue

[dsraven]

the tire size calculator page has different sections with information and on the front page, if you scroll down, you will see it has the tire sizes listed by rim size and then sectioned out by outside diameter of tires. that can be really handy when you decide you want, say, a 235/75r15 tire size. then you decide you like the diameter but would like a wider tire on the back but stay the same diameter as the front for aesthetics. you can quickly go through the chart nd find out which tirw size to look for. or maybe you want to stagger the wheel size but stay the same outside diameter, you can look up the diameter in the chart for the wheel size you want. then plug those numbers into the tire comparison and see a visual of tires side by side. the next step, once you pick a tire size, is to call around and see if it is a regulrly stocked size or a specil order only.
drawing out your axle, wheel, tire and body on a diagram with dimensions is kinda what the second link I posted before would look like. once you know the dimensions you can see it on paper. its straight forward for the rer axle stuff but the front axle requires a little more thought because when the tires turn the wheel also gets closer to the body work. i recommend running the suspension through a complete cycle with the tire turned as far as it will go, both ways, and see if the tire rubs anywhere at full jounce. that means no springs usually or else you gotta bit of work to do to compress the suspension. I use threaded rod in place of the shock absorber so the ride height can be adjusted to your liking and also to get the lower control arms sitting level-which should be your ride height because that places the suspension in a neutral position as far as leaning a tire in or out as the suspension moves up or down. when you are working with a new front suspenion you will also need to mock it up as close as possible for alignment because sometimes the axle centerline can move fore to aft to get the caster correct. the task force trucks are sensitive to the ride height andaxle centerline on the front axle due to the wheel opening shape. when the truck is lowered down over the tire, compared to a stock height perspective, the wheel always looks closer to the rear of the opening. once the ride height is figured out lock the threaded rod at that height during mock up. its always best to have the truck frame sitting on stands solidly and then level the frame side to side and get it at the rake angle you choose BEFORE any front end cross member is installed and set up. that way the cross member can be levelled up with the world instead of with the frame. anyway, this is turning into a book so I will just end here, lol.