replumed my trans cooler(PIC'S)

[BobbyK]

I replumbed my trans cooler this week and decided to change things a bit.

1st,the way it WAS plumbed not only looked bad but it leaked.

I have a 11"X11", 28,000 GVW,stacked plate trans cooler that I run in conjunction with the trans oil cooler in the radiator.I'm cooling a TCI 700R4 transmission.

Here's the flow path of the oil.
lower port is the output.It goes to the stacked plate cooler 1st.
From the stacked plate cooler it flows into the cooler in the rad.
From the radiator cooler it flows back to the trans and enters via the top port of the 700R4.

In addition to bending up the lines to make them look nice I rerouted them to the outside frame rail and isolated the hard lines with rubber lines.
I used the rubber lines when I was going from one body part to another.An example is from the frame rail to the rad. core support or from the trans to the frame mounted hard lines.
Doing it this way will accomodate for any shifting or movement between the said body components in flexy situations.

Anyhow,enough talk...let's get to the pic's

I bent up the 5/16th hard lines with your run-of-the-mill tubing bender.
I double flared the connections with a 45deg. double flaring tool.
I did get a new toy and utilized it on this project.
It's a pneumatic hose crimper.It can be used to make hydrolic and A/C lines.I've now done both with it

It a Mastercool hydrolic crimper.


Here's the beginning of one of the hoses I made.Two tube ends(double flared),Transmission oil rubber tubing,crimp sleeves(furrels), and to make it look cool some stainless braided sleeving.


After messuring things and cutting to the right length I slide the braiding over the hose and tapped the end off with electrical tape.I then slide the crimp sleeve over the hard line ends.


With a little trans oil smeared onto the hard line I slid the rubber line onto the hard line.
Then with a 1/2" wrench I coaxed the furrel over the hose and braiding.This was a little tough as the braiding increases the O.D. and the furrel is sized to fit JUST over the rubber tubing.


Next was the fun part.I got to use my new hydrolic crimper and crimp on the furrels over the tubing.
You 1st insert the right sized teeth into the crimper and then lock it closed with a saftey pin.
Then insert the tubing into the jaws and center the furrel in the teeth.


Then close the valve on the crimper and pump the handle.It slowly closes the jaws and crimps the ferrel onto the hose.


Open the valve to release the jaws and take out your newly crimped hose.Looks GOOD :thumb:


This particular line goes from the trans output to the hard lines on the frame rail.


Making sure I didn't drill into the fuel and brake lines on the inside of the frame rail I drilled two 3/4" holes for the new hard lines to pass through.
I used a wire coat hanger to get the shape and mark the bends I needed to make to the hard lines.

I then mounted the hard lines to the outside of the frame rail with some 5/16th tiedowns.


These two lines go into the trans and connect to the two hard lines I passed through the frame rail.


I mounted the cooler and proceeded to bend up the hard lines that will feed it.


Here I've bent up one of hard lines feeding the cooler and connected a rubber line to one end.


I also made new lines going to and from the rad. trans oil cooler.
The top line connects to a hard line on the frame rail and sends the trans oil back to the transmission.
The bottom line is coming from the stacked plate cooler and feeds trans oil to the rad cooler.


I fed the feed and away lines for the stacked plate cooler through the rad core support.All the lines were secured to the frame rail or rad core with the appropriate fasteners.


I attched the rubber lines to the stacked plate cooler and clamped them down with some hose clamps.I added the two bottom brackets to help support of the stacked plate cooler.


Here are the connections at the frame rail.


Here it is all done,well...minus one of the rubber hoses.I hadn't connected it yet when I took the pic.


And that's that!
It looks good now,is solidly mounted and DOES NOT leak.


Hope this can help someone in the future.