11-02-2004, 04:39 PM | #1 |
Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
|
Need a slide resistor
To help with the upgrades to the heating system. Anyone know where I can get one on the cheap? Am looking for something small that will fit behind where the original blower switch goes so it still looks factory. Was thinking something along the 0-100 or 200 ohm value. Thanks, Jeff.
__________________
1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
11-02-2004, 06:44 PM | #2 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,937
|
I re-read your last post on this subject.
You gave up on looking for a solid state speed control? Reason I ask is cause if you put a vaiable resistor in the OE switch location it will get just as hot as the factory resistor does. Maybe hotter since there will be zero airflow over it compared to the factory one. Does the relay switched power wire heat up on you when you have it on high speed? You had jumped the resistor and your jumper heated up on you. Curious if it does it on high speed side also. Rich
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
11-02-2004, 08:20 PM | #3 |
Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
|
I still haven't been able to find a solid state control unit. Thought the slide resistor would serve the same purpose, but you might be right it might heat up even more. The jumper heating up was with the old resistor network though, and I think that that might be the source of the whole problem. So, now I'm looking to just replace that component and bypass the solid state control altogether. Running the blower motor straight from battery, the blower works great, doesn't heat up the wire and seems to be fine. I think with a slide resistor, I'll have a controllable speed, and if it dissipates enough heat, should not have a heat problem. Thats my idea anyway. Anyone see any problems with this idea? If so please chime in, as I don't want to make it worse than it already is. Thanks wing and all who are looking. Jeff.
__________________
1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
11-03-2004, 12:32 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
|
Right in front of your passengers left knee there is a solid cable mount that controls the DEF/HEAT!!
YOu can make that manual right there! Now right beside that is a mount which you can mount a toggle! The FAN's on off toggle that you just stole from Wally Mart! Now you have the climates DEF/HEAT and fan on and off! Now up above there is the cable to select hot and cold, tear out everything up untill this cable. It is a easy conversion to make a Knob to control Hot and Cold! Now tear out your climate regulator smash it on the road all drunk so the neighbours cry for a week!?$%^&#@ love which? neighbour?!? U now just rid off the worst part of the dash! Weld a plate to smooth your dash! Just a toggle and 2 knobs. While your at it put the high beams on a toggle! Relays on the lights, highs, E fan, IGN, Scrap the alarm sterio and tronics, Just listen to the motor!!! Cheers!~!!
__________________
1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
11-03-2004, 12:37 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
|
run the fan on the HIGH only
On or Off |
11-03-2004, 12:48 AM | #6 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,937
|
Anyone out there know what ohm values are supposed to be found on the blower motor resistor?
Jeff, I need to get to my wiring diagram to remember how things route before and after the resistor. Just thinkin out loud here, In the original configuration, without the resistor to drop the voltage the blower will try to draw the full 16.5 amps through that, what, 16?,18? gauge yellow or blue wire. Pretty sure the main feed wire (brown?) is 12 guage. Might cause a bit of heat in a smaller gauge wire or the dash switch. Maybe the resistor is not dropping enough voltage? Any chance you have a bad a/c relay? http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=588&PTSet=A Check out how this relay works on the above link. On pin 2 one of 2 differant voltages (controlled by the dash switch through the resistor) will go to the blower with the relay un-energized. When the relay is energized (controlled by the dash switch) power is fed from the fuse block through pin 3 to the blower motor. Seeing how your high speed is evidently ok, and the other 2 speeds fries things maybe pin 2 is shorted to the case. You can also see the relay is case grounded. There is a bonding wire that goes from the relay mount to the fan motor ground on the other side of the firewall. You check that ground? Mine was loose. Will try to scan the appropriate section of the diagram with it traced for you. Chime in anyone. Rich
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
11-03-2004, 12:57 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
|
Climate on toggle and rest on relay!
|
11-03-2004, 01:06 AM | #8 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,937
|
Be nice to have more n 1 fan speed.
__________________
The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
11-03-2004, 03:13 AM | #9 |
Active Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 249
|
Have you thought about replacing the resistor board or the blower motor resistor? oldchevytrucks.com has any part you need for heater/AC
__________________
69 C10 LWB Project 47 Cushman Scooter Project It is better to have loved and lost than to live with a psycho all your life. |
11-03-2004, 12:21 PM | #10 |
Back in the sticks
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Fordland, MO
Posts: 3,188
|
hehe, glad 67chevemall doesn't feel strongly about this one way or the other.
chickenwing, I have a complete diagram of the factory wiring and mine was wired that way. Its not anymore. The A/C relay is working fine, but it too will be used in a different way. I'll use it to provide the power to the blower motor after the slide resistor. That way the switch and resistor won't have to absorb as much heat. I'll toggle it on via the switch and resistor and route the variable voltage through its output contacts. I'll read the blower resistor tonight and tell you what mine is right now. It won't be in the ckt any more though so it won't make much difference. Might tell me where the heat culprit was though. 69, yep, thats what I'm working thru, trying to figure out a way to avoid melting down my switch every month or two. Thanks again for all the replies, Jeff.
__________________
1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|