Please help fast - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

WORNBRAKES · 06-21-2002, 02:48 AM

Paul- I got:
Hei=.045-.050
points=.035

Paul Clark · 06-21-2002, 03:07 AM

I have a '71 Chevelle 350 (360) in my '72 truck. It also has an HEI. Pretty sure it has R44TS plugs in it.
They're gapped at .35. According to what you found (thank you) should they really be at .45 - .50?
Wow. I feel so "macho"
Wonder what difference that would make?
(getting closer to 100 posts)

Thanks

WORNBRAKES · 06-21-2002, 03:17 AM

100 posts means we need to find some good pics to post under our mane. mane. lol a few 2 many beers. i mean name.
on my points use a gap of .035 and 72 S C says to use a gap of .045-.050 with an HEI
does that help?

Blue_71 · 06-21-2002, 03:43 AM

heres the prosess, proces, ah hell heres what i went through
get #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke
point rotor button towards #1
put in
put cap on
cus while trying to get rewired right
run wire from BAT terminal on cap to Ign unfused port on fuse block
ive got all my plugs gapped to .40 and it runs fine

chevyman 68 C/10 · 06-21-2002, 07:33 AM

Pull #1 plug, turn it over with your finger over the hole. When compresion pushes against you, carefuly move the engine to line up the mark on the harmonic balencer to 0. Dont go past or you will not be on compresion stroke. (turn by hand)

Check to make sure it is pointing to #1 not the other way around.

Make sure you wired the plug wires in clock wise direction 18436572. (it will crank with this backwards)

Your coil wire is fine for 12 volt source.

Gap is not your prob. ,but it needs to be 45 to work correct

Points stink ,when you get this going you will never go back

Good luck, Chevyman 68 C/10

SWINGSAX68 · 06-21-2002, 10:34 AM

I don't know much about distributers, but, try runnin a wire from the pos(+) terminal of the battery to the 'S' terminal on the Starter solenoid, if it starts, then you have a mis-wiring or something from the dist, to the ignition. Make sure that the 'Bat' terminal on your distributer is connected to the Dist. wire from the ignition....I think thats where it goes. All i know is that Ign. Unfused didn't work for me, I don't know why....I think that is only for points....not sure. Just run a wire from your dist. to the ignition through one of those holes in the fire wall. Does the starter spin? does it want to to turn over? Then this might be the problem. Is there a clicking sound? It could just be the solenoid......I dunno I'm just talking from what was wrong with my truck.....Hope I didn't make myself sound like a moron.

Suicide-D · 06-21-2002, 11:24 AM

Did you get it started? If not this is the way I have done distributors... and I have done it too many times... get used to working in confined spaces for one thing.

Make sure you are at TDC. I turned the motor over til the timing mark lines up. With the driver's side valve cover off as the timing mark approaches there should be no movement in the valves, both #1 valves will be closed. You can also pull the #1 plug and stick a screw driver in it... you'll pretty much go straight in if the piston is there.
I mark the dist body where my number 1 will be (7 oclock ish) with the cap on.
I then point the rotor to the 6 o'clock position with the vacuum advance in it's normal spot and drop it in, turning the rotor slightly clockwise to engage the gear.

I then bump the starter until the mark goes around 2 times and check my rotor alignment. Then install the cap and wire it 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

I have better luck stabbing them this way than with the number 1 at the 5 o'clock position

Good Luck...

the next one will be a MSD or a mallory with the small cap and a control box.... man that is a bad place for all that garbage... only good thing Ford ever did... put it up front...

Blazer1970 · 06-21-2002, 11:46 AM

Did you change the plug wires? HEI uses a different type of terminal on the cap, and points style plug wires will not work unless you get a special HEI cap with points style connectors.

71BBK10 · 06-21-2002, 11:51 AM

i don't understand why people never get this, number 1 is wherever you make it on the distributor cap. any luck yet?

WORNBRAKES · 06-26-2002, 01:33 AM

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I got it after a few beers, mowing the lawn, changing the oil and an extensive cool down period. I pulled the dizzy and started over going slower this time. Fell right in when I wasn't pi$$ed off. Thanks for all the help. I noticed an imediate diff between the two dizzies. I like it. Thanks again,
Mario

Longhorn Man · 06-26-2002, 07:23 AM

Don't go too crazy gapping plugs. All it'll do is wear out your coil and wires. Stay between .040 and .045.
Yes, they did say .050 for a year or so after adding HEI, bu then they chainged it to a smaller gap, becouse ppl were coming in with worn parts.
It's also not good on the Module.

WORNBRAKES · 06-26-2002, 01:10 PM

Thanks again Longhornmail. I set them to .045 and they seem fine there.

**Desert Rat** · 06-26-2002, 01:18 PM

I set my plugs at .045 with HEI,and it runs best on the cheap Autolites,tried everything.also make sure you do away with that resistor wire,the cloth covered one,run your power source to 12volt controled by key,not constant power.Sounds like you got her going though-Happy Trucking!

06-21-2002, 02:48 AM	#26
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Paul- I got: Hei=.045-.050 points=.035 __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

06-21-2002, 03:17 AM	#28
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	100 posts means we need to find some good pics to post under our mane. mane. lol a few 2 many beers. i mean name. on my points use a gap of .035 and 72 S C says to use a gap of .045-.050 with an HEI does that help? __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

06-21-2002, 07:33 AM	#30
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	Pull #1 plug, turn it over with your finger over the hole. When compresion pushes against you, carefuly move the engine to line up the mark on the harmonic balencer to 0. Dont go past or you will not be on compresion stroke. (turn by hand) Check to make sure it is pointing to #1 not the other way around. Make sure you wired the plug wires in clock wise direction 18436572. (it will crank with this backwards) Your coil wire is fine for 12 volt source. Gap is not your prob. ,but it needs to be 45 to work correct Points stink ,when you get this going you will never go back Good luck, Chevyman 68 C/10 __________________ 69 Chevy short fleet side soon to have LT1 and 4L60E pb. ps cruise and air. 68 Chevy short fleet side 400 sb 5 inch chop top pb. ps. pw. 350 auto and shaved handles 68 anniversary no engine long wheel base 400 auto FOR SALE 68 Chevy fleet side long wheel base complete parts truck.

06-21-2002, 10:34 AM	#31
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	Hmmm..... I don't know much about distributers, but, try runnin a wire from the pos(+) terminal of the battery to the 'S' terminal on the Starter solenoid, if it starts, then you have a mis-wiring or something from the dist, to the ignition. Make sure that the 'Bat' terminal on your distributer is connected to the Dist. wire from the ignition....I think thats where it goes. All i know is that Ign. Unfused didn't work for me, I don't know why....I think that is only for points....not sure. Just run a wire from your dist. to the ignition through one of those holes in the fire wall. Does the starter spin? does it want to to turn over? Then this might be the problem. Is there a clicking sound? It could just be the solenoid......I dunno I'm just talking from what was wrong with my truck.....Hope I didn't make myself sound like a moron. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788 Last edited by SWINGSAX68; 06-21-2002 at 10:37 AM.

06-21-2002, 11:46 AM	#33
Blazer1970 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Old Mission, MI, USA Posts: 2,507	Did you change the plug wires? HEI uses a different type of terminal on the cap, and points style plug wires will not work unless you get a special HEI cap with points style connectors. __________________ Tim

06-21-2002, 03:07 AM	#27
Paul Clark Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Center Point, IA Posts: 502	I have a '71 Chevelle 350 (360) in my '72 truck. It also has an HEI. Pretty sure it has R44TS plugs in it. They're gapped at .35. According to what you found (thank you) should they really be at .45 - .50? Wow. I feel so "macho" Wonder what difference that would make? (getting closer to 100 posts) Thanks

06-21-2002, 11:24 AM	#32
Suicide-D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH. Posts: 1,408	Did you get it started? If not this is the way I have done distributors... and I have done it too many times... get used to working in confined spaces for one thing. Make sure you are at TDC. I turned the motor over til the timing mark lines up. With the driver's side valve cover off as the timing mark approaches there should be no movement in the valves, both #1 valves will be closed. You can also pull the #1 plug and stick a screw driver in it... you'll pretty much go straight in if the piston is there. I mark the dist body where my number 1 will be (7 oclock ish) with the cap on. I then point the rotor to the 6 o'clock position with the vacuum advance in it's normal spot and drop it in, turning the rotor slightly clockwise to engage the gear. I then bump the starter until the mark goes around 2 times and check my rotor alignment. Then install the cap and wire it 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. I have better luck stabbing them this way than with the number 1 at the 5 o'clock position Good Luck... the next one will be a MSD or a mallory with the small cap and a control box.... man that is a bad place for all that garbage... only good thing Ford ever did... put it up front...

06-21-2002, 11:51 AM	#34
71BBK10 Teufelhunden Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Camp Pendelton Ca Posts: 572	i don't understand why people never get this, number 1 is wherever you make it on the distributor cap. any luck yet? __________________ 1971 K10 lwb fleetside 402 T350 205

06-26-2002, 01:33 AM	#35
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I got it after a few beers, mowing the lawn, changing the oil and an extensive cool down period. I pulled the dizzy and started over going slower this time. Fell right in when I wasn't pi$$ed off. Thanks for all the help. I noticed an imediate diff between the two dizzies. I like it. Thanks again, Mario __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

06-26-2002, 07:23 AM	#36
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Don't go too crazy gapping plugs. All it'll do is wear out your coil and wires. Stay between .040 and .045. Yes, they did say .050 for a year or so after adding HEI, bu then they chainged it to a smaller gap, becouse ppl were coming in with worn parts. It's also not good on the Module.

06-26-2002, 01:10 PM	#37
WORNBRAKES Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Hughesville, MD Posts: 1,350	Thanks again Longhornmail. I set them to .045 and they seem fine there. __________________ Mario and Mandy Hughesville, MD 20637 69 C10 305/350 71 K5 Basket case 75 K10 Rescue Parting out 77 MG Midget Parting out 15 6.7L Cummins

06-26-2002, 01:18 PM	#38
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	I set my plugs at .045 with HEI,and it runs best on the cheap Autolites,tried everything.also make sure you do away with that resistor wire,the cloth covered one,run your power source to 12volt controled by key,not constant power.Sounds like you got her going though-Happy Trucking!

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