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#1 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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69 amp meter
The factory style amp meter in the 69 I picked up does not work and prior owner said he had replaced gage and still won't work ( old gage in glove box)> Is there any obvious place to start looking??? I assumed all current has to run through this gage for the vehicle How does the circuit actualy work and could it be the circuit board??
Thank you, Dave |
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#2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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look on either side of the engine compartment...along the top of the fenders in the wire harness...you are looking for a small rubber fuse holder on either side...kinda looks like a really small football in shape. Check the fuse (and replace most likely) on both of them and you oughta have a worrking amp guage.
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#3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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Thanks,
I'll check it out. Dave |
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#4 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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Only a fraction of the current goes through the amp gauge on these trucks. On my 52 there is 10 ga wire in & out of the ammeter, but on these trucks it is 20 ga, which makes it in the under one amp category, iirc.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. ![]() |
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#5 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Our amp meters are actually low voltage meters measuring a voltage drop in the red wire that runs along the core support. The red wire is of know resistance and with the voltage drop in ohms law you can get current of course we have no numbers to associate with just charge or discharge.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
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#6 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,276
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I got it fixed!!!!
![]() I found one on the drivers side behind the headlight area and got it opened up and the fuse was blown.............I don't know what style fuse it needs so I found a 10 amp and put that in. No results. I didn't find the passenger side one at first and then I found it dangling down below the passenger side headlight and not connected to anything!!! ![]() I had removed it and found a broken shard of glass and remains of a fuse here. I replaced it also with a 10 amp and had to run to the pick and pull for some parts and spotted a 69 there that was pretty canibalized, but still had the mystery wire end for the passenger side fuse hooked up to the junction block on fender for the hot wires. I went home and hooked up there and sure enough I now have a working amp meter.!!!! The fuses I have in there are for temporary only, probably way too heavy amperage and they are also way long for the little holders. Can someone tell me the proper fuse for this???? Thanks a bunch!! Dave |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beeville, Texas
Posts: 1,943
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They're 4 amp fuses, the model number should be 3AG/AGC is what I'm getting out of the service manual. They're short ones, probably around 9/16" long.
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RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck |
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