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Old 06-26-2002, 11:48 PM   #1
Patrick Sullivan
Transcendental Trucker
 
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How do you remove the saddle tanks?

I wanna trash these things, I'm not using them and they're just dead weight. I can't really figure out how they mount, or how I can drop 'em out..

Thanks.
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1972 Chevy Cheyenne C-20
1998 Dodge Dakota 4x4

So, fill to me the parting glass
And drink a health whate'er befalls...
Then gently rise and softly call
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:05 AM   #2
ebfabman
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There's two bolts that go through the bed floor and through the tanks. If the bolts are rusty, you might have to weld something to the tops of the bolts in the bed to keep them from turning, then try to turn the bolts until they break or maybe use a sawsall to cut them loose. Empty the tanks first.
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:08 AM   #3
ebfabman
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oh yeah, the tanks drop out from the bottom. You may have to raise the truck a little to get them to clear.
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:14 AM   #4
Patrick Sullivan
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Ah, I put my hand up there and indeed, there are two bolts. Wasn't sure what they were at first..

These things are coming out! Thanks.
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Patrick Sullivan | sullivan@oregoncoast.com
Rockaway Beach, Oregon
1972 Chevy Cheyenne C-20
1998 Dodge Dakota 4x4

So, fill to me the parting glass
And drink a health whate'er befalls...
Then gently rise and softly call
Goodnight and joy be to you all!
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:20 AM   #5
Longhorn Man
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That was one of the first things I did to the old Longhorn. Nasty POS tank IMO.
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Old 06-27-2002, 07:35 AM   #6
RipMeyer
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They sure are nice when your on a trip and find gas for $1.05 a gallon. 60 gallons sounds good to me.

I like mine
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Old 06-27-2002, 07:56 AM   #7
mrein3
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My one saddle tank leaked since the day I bought the truck. I really wanted to start using it but the bolts were rusted solid. I used my grinder and took the heads off the bolts from inside the bed. Then I used a BFH to whack the bolts out of the tank after I got the tank out of the truck. I also cleaned out the tubes that the bolts ran through as they were full of 30 years of clay, mud, and rust.

Then I brought it to a radiator shop to fix the leak. For $50 that guy cleaned and coated the inside and fixed the leak.

When I got it back I por-15ed the outside and top coated that with a rattle can I had laying around.

I also used this opportunity to install a $25 or so guage and sender from JC Whitney.

To reattach it to the truck I made long 1/2 carriage bolts out of threaded rod and real short 1/2 inch carriage bolts.

I though for $75 it was a nice cheap upgrade. I nearly doubled my driving range and I now know how much gas is in the extra tank.
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Last edited by mrein3; 06-27-2002 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 06-27-2002, 11:17 AM   #8
Stout72
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Patrick:

If you're getting rid of those saddle tanks, what kind of shape are they in? Do they hang down any where they are visible from the side? What's the capacity? How much do you want for them, etc, etc? Mine had saddle tanks aboard, but a previous owned removed them. All of the plumbing is still there. I want to put some back in and lose the tank in the cab.
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Old 06-27-2002, 11:46 AM   #9
Blue68
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I'll give you my take on saddle tanks since no one asked. It makes me nervous to have a load of fuel in a location that people who don't understand the concept of stop tend to insert their front bumper. And the tank with no protection at all except the bed skin.

Remember the mid 70's Chevys that had a rash of burnings?

Just a though and reason for tanks between the frame rails.

By the way, I'm not a big fan of the fuel load behind the seat either. And I always wear my seat belt and look both ways before crossing the street. Obviously, I don't trust other drivers around the Dallas area very much.
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:56 PM   #10
RipMeyer
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Not sure what yours are made of but mine are a thick HEAVY steel.
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Old 06-27-2002, 04:15 PM   #11
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Mine were leaded, so did'nt rust at all after 30 yrs. I thought they all were? I did'nt want the dead weight. They ARE heavy. I sold them at a Houston swap meet to a trucker(semi). I took out the cab one also. Got tired of the fumes. Now I have a 26 gal. leaded tank in the bed. Think I got it outta a C20 or 30. Its only 1 foot wide so does'nt take much space. I like making the truck lighter. More fuel economy & better braking.
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Old 06-27-2002, 06:47 PM   #12
imaindianoutlaw
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I was thinking of makeing a saddle tank out of stainless to put in a swb fleet on the rear side of the wheel well. I f you have a cap or tonnue cover you can still fill the tank.
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Old 06-27-2002, 06:51 PM   #13
dion
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I need to take mine out but it seems like a pain in the ass, hey 72gmco'skool come and get them!
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Old 06-27-2002, 06:54 PM   #14
Patrick Sullivan
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If it seems like a pain in the ass, that's because it is!

I've got one bolt kinda loose.. haven't even started on the others. And of all the days to start raining, it started today.
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Patrick Sullivan | sullivan@oregoncoast.com
Rockaway Beach, Oregon
1972 Chevy Cheyenne C-20
1998 Dodge Dakota 4x4

So, fill to me the parting glass
And drink a health whate'er befalls...
Then gently rise and softly call
Goodnight and joy be to you all!
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Old 06-27-2002, 08:11 PM   #15
fishuntr
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Talking

You guys are taking them out, and i'm putting them in. LOL I wanted the extra fuel capacity, but didn't want to cut holes in the sides of my bed; so, i'm in the process of moving the fill pipes to the rear of the tanks. In addition, i'm putting a crossover piope from the passenger side tank, to the driver's side.

Both fill caps will be in the driver's side fender well. I am filling the holes on the tops of the tanks whre the old fill caps were. I'm also putting in a vent hose on each tank with a fuel filter on each one to keep the dirt out. I did this procedure on a truck about twenty years ago and it worked out real well.

Too bad we don't have a tech section on this board. I would write it up with photos if anybody was interested. Jimmy
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