Confusion about driveshaft/transmission removal

[toddtheodd]

The books tell me to "undo the ubolts on the rear of the driveshaft and push towards the front of the car to disengage from rear end." Then to "pull back to disengage from transmission". I've looked at the ujoints on the front of the drive shaft and they are the kind that are always pictured being taken apart in a vise.
So my confusion is this. Can the yoke just be pulled right out of the transmission like that? Does it slide right back in just as easily? Wouldn't that cause the fluid to leak out?
I can take a motor apart and put it back together again, but I've never done this before and the books I have are confusing.
Todd

[stickshift_or_walk]

Todd,

Assuming you're dealing with a tranny other than a truck 4spd (SM420, SM465), you are correct. Most all autos, 3spds, and car 4spds have splined output shafts and a slip yoke that attaches to the front of the driveshaft. This is what allows it to slip forward from the rear.

Before you dissassemble, mark the shaft/yoke against the tranny/rearend so you get it back in the same relationship (I think it's called "phasing").

If your tranny is tilted backward, the fluid can leak out. Level, you shouldn't lose much. There are plastic plugs made, or you can use an old yoke to stab back in the end of the tranny.

SSOW

[LT4XTREME]

The yoke at the trans should be a slip yoke. After you remove the bolts from the rear u-joint slid the drive shaft forward (a small prybar or big screwdriver is handy to put between the u-joint and rear yoke to pry the u-joint forward out of the rear yoke) then pull the slip yoke out of the trans. There is a seal at the tailshaft of the trans that the slip yoke seals to. If you driveshaft has a carrier bearing mounted to the frame the bolts for this also need to be removed.

[toddtheodd]

Thanks for clearing that up guys. I don't have a plug or another yoke so I guess I'm just going to have to use a sandwich baggy and rubber bands to keep from making a mess on my floor.
I'm pulling a motor and trans (because I can't get to the bellhousing bolts to just pull the motor (70 chevelle)), so the trans will soon thereafter being laying level on the floor.
Todd

[67ChevyRedneck]

If you re-use the tranny it's always a good idea to replace the seal at the tailshaft in the tranny....they tend to leak once the driveshaft is taken out then put back in. Also, if you remove the tranny from the motor you should definately replace the seal that is at the front of the tranny...They tend to leak a good bit if not replaced. good luck!

[stickshift_or_walk]

Just get a big pan under it when you pull the yoke, and let it drain at an angle. Then put the diaper on it for the trip out.

SSOW

[jorgensensc]

just a small suggestion i learned from an old mechanic when I did a LT1 and 6 speed swap in an s10. I couldn't get tothe bolts on the tranny either, so I had to put the engine and tranny in as a unit. He told me to mock up the tranny in position without the engine. Next make a mark on the firewall with a punch where the bolt holes are. Pull the carpet up in the interior and use a 1"-1 1/2" hole saw at all of your marks. Buys some rubber plugs from the hardware store and plug up the holes. The next time you need to take out the motor or tranny, just pull the carpet, pull the grommet plugs, and undo the bolts. It works out really well. Hope it helps a little.
Shawn