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Old 11-30-2004, 10:38 PM   #1
Wootdog
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Venting

Well I figured I was messing up on the install of my door poppers so I took the truck out on it's maiden voyage, about two miles from the house. They had my truck for two whole days and I had to call the shop for progress. Normally in my estimation people who work on vehicles call you before the end of the business day to tell you about problems, etc. Not.They told me they got the passenger side to work but not the drivers side. Well after close to the end of the second day, I went to the shop to see what was going on. They told me if I tightened the cable on the passenger side it should work fine. Well, I looked at the passenger side, and the solenoid wasn't even attached to the door. They told me the drivers side would not work with the remote, but would with the push button inside the truck. It did in fact work that way. I asked them what they had to do to get the drivers side to work with the push button? Any adjustment of the cable, etc. I was told no, they only hooked up the push button. But the drivers side doesn't work with the remote. I figure tomorrow I will sort that out. To add insult to injury, When I get the truck comfortably back in the garage, I smell something that is not right, both rear brakes are smelling like they are burning up. I take a little water, and put on the rear wheels and steam like a mother happens. I sure hope the brakes are the culprit and I didn't smoke the whole rear end. Sorry people I just needed to vent. And the bottom line is I paid over a hundred dollars to be just where I was two days ago. I guess what I have been trying to accomplish is harder than most people think. Wootdog
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1967 C10
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1969 Chevelle
1990 IROC Z Convertible
2002 Silverado LT
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:44 PM   #2
Longhorn Man
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On the brakes, does it have a brand new master cylinder on it?
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:44 PM   #3
Wootdog
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Master cylinder?

Yes It has a new master cylinder. I put in a corvette master cylinder with both of the fluid fill areas being the same size. I have a ford nine inch rear end with disc brakes. It has new rotors, new calipers, pads, heck everything is new. It figures the Ford part would give me the dickins so to speak. I pulled the left rear wheel just now, and the pads are definately rubbing the rotor. When I replaced everything a while back, and yes it has been setting for awhile everything was ok. I sure hope I didn't smoke the rear end. I will find out tomorrow evening. The one thing I didn't do was make sure the rear end was full of ninety weight rear end oil. Like everything else it will probably get me in the butt. And I probably needed to put in the proportion valve that I didn't use after I bought it. Kerry
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1967 C10
Got it back after three years
Boy I sure missed Peppy

1969 Chevelle
1990 IROC Z Convertible
2002 Silverado LT
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Old 11-30-2004, 11:58 PM   #4
68w/sbc406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wootdog
And I probably needed to put in the proportion valve that I didn't use after I bought it. Kerry
so what prop valve are you using??? is it a stock disc/drum prop valve??? if so that is your problem. the drum valves have a check valve in them to not allow the fluid to run back up to the master cylinder, keeping pressure in the line so that the spring doesnt colapse the wheel cylinder, so it is keeping pressure on the pads and making them rub on the rear disc. if not just disregard everything i said.
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:12 AM   #5
Wootdog
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Re Prop valve

I never installed the darn thing. I am running without a prop valve. could that be my problem?
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1967 C10
Got it back after three years
Boy I sure missed Peppy

1969 Chevelle
1990 IROC Z Convertible
2002 Silverado LT
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:14 AM   #6
68w/sbc406
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id put it in and then go from there
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags

'02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car)

1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:35 PM   #7
LT4XTREME
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In my opinion 99.9% of the time a rear brake problem that happens as soon as you get the truck back from someone else is a problem with the e-brake sticking. I've worked around cars all my life and learned real quick never to touch the e-brake on any car that is not yours. What happens 50% of people use the e-brake and 50% don't the cars that get used work the ones that don't get used will stick. So when a e-brake user gets in a non e-brake user's car and sets the e-brake somebody just got screwed. Now did you get screwed and fix it or do you make them pay to fix it. This is usually fixed by new cables and new shoes to replace the burnt ones. That's not alot of money, but this is how I learned to never touch a e-brake I know nothing about. Brakes worked fine when customer leaves truck would probly work for a long time. So like a dumba$$ and set the e-brake and it sticks. To replace cables, drums are stuck to axles, destroy backing plates removing drums, find bad wheel cylinders and axle seals leaking, drums shot, shoes shot, hardware kit needed, need to remove axle shafts to replace backing plates and axle seals, need rear diff cover gasket and fluid, bolts breaks that holds cross shaft in rear diff. Cost lots of time and money. So make them fix it and they will learn this lesson and never ever will forget it.

Edit: was reading though the other post and found out it's a ford 9" with rear discs so I know this is not your problem but it might help someone from making this mistake.

Last edited by LT4XTREME; 12-01-2004 at 12:39 PM.
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