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12-01-2004, 10:34 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 12
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Drop drag link or Cross over steering
Hey guys,
i have a 74 chevy 4x4 with 8 inches of lift. i have a raised steering arm, but it is not enough. My steering is horrible. My truck will barely turn. My question is what is everyone's recommendation on how to fix this. Cross over steering would obivously be the best way, but it would also require much more work and money. It looks like a drop drag link costs around $140 which to me seems kind of expensive considering there isn't much to the part. |
12-01-2004, 10:50 AM | #2 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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You get a drop pitman arm for about $90, it corrects about 2" of lift, plus your 4-6" raised steering arm, you'd be in the ball park.
Crossover would be the best solution though, and/or adding a hydraulic ram powered by the gear box/ps pump but also cost money.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
12-01-2004, 01:20 PM | #3 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
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Dude, the drop drag link is a good investment... Keep in mind you get 2 brand new tie rod ends too... Those are typically what $30 ea? So 60 for new tie rod ends and then an additional 80 for the linkage.
Ok, it's a little pricey... I may need one too depending on how the pitman arm and steering arm do with my new lift. There is also a steering arm lift block too... have you looked into it? Superlift has one. It basically goes between the steering knuckle and steering arm and corrects for about 2". Can't play around with steering... Do yourself a favor and do whatever it takes to correct it ASAP.
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12-02-2004, 01:44 AM | #4 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,399
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crossover. less effect on the steering when the suspension is flexed one way or the other. if you stuff a tire with front to back steering, forget about turning any way other than the way the wheels are pointed at the time.
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12-02-2004, 04:05 AM | #5 |
Majician
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In the Middle
Posts: 329
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Drop drag links are a complete waste of money. You have to remove the draglink to adjust it, your steering wheel will likely not be straight (as the adjustment sucks), and they tend to tilt from side to side as you turn making the steering less responsive than ever (it's hard to beleive that the steering could be less responsive in these trucks!).
Do as JIMs70GMC says and try the dropped pitman arm (around $90) in addition to your raised steering arm. I would stay away from steering blocks; maybe a 1" block if you need just a little more correction. If you plan to flex the truck much you will need crossover. I have a 6" suspension lift and have the raised steering arm with the factory style drag link adjusted all of the way out and it steers good, both left and right. When I flex though (mainly when the driver side drops out) the angle is too much on the ball joints and it physically damages them. Check the link in my signature to see the flexing pics that broke my draglink. |
12-02-2004, 08:01 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Old Mission, MI, USA
Posts: 2,507
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Dropped drag links do absolutely NOTHING to correct steering geometry. All they do is relieve the angles at the drag link ends. If you want to steer a truck with 8 inches of suspension lift, you have to go crossover.
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Tim |
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