Pulling distributor - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Yukon Jack** · 07-02-2002, 05:06 PM

I'm considering pulling the old distributor and replacing it with an HEI unit. My spark plug wires are chewed up by rats and it's time to replace them anyway.

When I was looking at my engine this morning it doesn't look like the distributor could be pulled up and out without hitting the firewall above the distributor. My engine is a 307 and it is in my 4x4.

This pic doesn't show the potential problem too well, but maybe you can see the problem.

Anyone have a similar problem? If so, what was your solution?

chevy2racr · 07-02-2002, 05:09 PM

I was able to pull my HEI on my 327 I pulled the cap first, then the dist. try that if it won't come wiht the cap on
Bryce

johnnyp · 07-02-2002, 05:18 PM

If you can't get it out, you might consider going with the PerTronix Ignitor

barn9 · 07-02-2002, 05:19 PM

Have you got the HEI yet? I got mine off of a wrecked Trans Am that had just been pulled into the local bone yard, so it's worth a try. You know I'm mechanically challenged, so I had a mechanic friend help with the changeover. Jason has probably done a couple. Did you get your tranny changed yet?

I will PM you another question I want to ask you, off topic, so no need to put it on here.

Let me know if you need some help.

junkyardjohn · 07-02-2002, 07:15 PM

IT'LL COME OUT. HONEST . ALTHOUGH IT DOESN'T HAVE ALOT OF EXTRA ROOM, & YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE CAP FIRST, IT WILL COME OUT.

**68 Stepside** · 07-02-2002, 08:46 PM

Being a 4x4, the engine sits in the rear motor mount position. So it will be an extremely tight fit. But if you take your old one out (be sure to mark the rotor location), and take the cap off of the HEI, it should drop in. Mine does, and my 406 is sitting in the rearward frame holes.

TJ

Gordo · 07-02-2002, 08:58 PM

My 350 is in the 6 location and the hei fits, it's close, about the thickness of my finger between the cap and firewall. Both distributors will slip out and in.

Ed ke6bnl · 07-03-2002, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gordo
My 350 is in the 6 location and the hei fits, it's close, about the thickness of my finger between the cap and firewall. Both distributors will slip out and in.

My boys truck engine is in the rear location but the truck came with the small cap dist from Mallory with a separate coil. Not a bad way to go. Lots of room. Ed ke6bnl

junkyardjohn · 07-03-2002, 08:52 AM

I'VE HAD THREE OF THESE TRUCKS THAT WERE 4WD, & THE MOTOPS ON ALL OF THEM SAT IN THE REAR FRAME HOLES. (6 CYL. LOCATION ON 2WDs) I THINK THAT MUST BE WHY THEY HAVE SUCH A BIG INDENTION, IN THE FIREWALL, & THE FAN SHROUDS ARE QUITE A BIT LONGER.

RodC · 07-03-2002, 08:56 AM

I have the PerTronix Ignitor. Works great and retains the stock appearance.

**Yukon Jack** · 07-03-2002, 09:16 AM

Glad to hear it ought to come out. I don't really know how long the distributor is but it just looked really tight. Here are a couple more pics that show the clearance issue better.

BTW - The stuff that looks like a film of grease and goo on various parts of the engine is actually a high performance mixture that will take nearly 2 seconds off your 1/4 mile times. Its good stuff but highly confidential - for that reason, please do not download these pictures and post on Ford boards. The rat chew marks on the spark plug wires are also intentional - serious performance gains if placed in just the right position. :p

Mike C · 07-03-2002, 09:17 AM

Mark, It will come out. It looks tight, but once you pull the cap and rotor, out it comes. A full size HEI won't fit with out some hammer massaging. I wasn't willing to go that route so my solution was an MSD ready-to-run billet distributor. Comes with cap and rotor for $240 or so. While more expensive than buying an aftermarket GM HEI, and WAY more expensive than the junkyard route, it is the more elegant way to go. Get yourself a Blaster II coil while you're at it for another $30. It will really make your truck start and drive better.
For all you 2 wheel drive guys, the 4x4 engine placement is similar to mounting a V8 on 6 cylinder stands. The distributor is about 1" from the firewall, actually inside the recess. This was done in order to keep a reasonable length on the front driveshaft and is also what makes swapping a big block into a 67-72 a Royal PITA.

**Classic Heartbeat** · 07-03-2002, 11:22 AM

I have HEIs in 3 of the four 4X4s I have.. The fourth doesn't have an engine installed yet, but it will have one when it is..... 1 is a 72 K-5 with a BB 402 in the 6 cylender possition... I had to massage the firewall where the valve covers are but that was it. 1 is a 72 SWB 4X4 with 350/4 speed, and the last one is a 72 3/4ton 4X4 with T-350... No problems with clearense on any of them..... If you have your truck lifted so much that the engine, transmission, and transfer case have to be tilted to help with the driveline angles then you will have a problem, otherwise you shouldn't. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

**68 Stepside** · 07-03-2002, 11:22 AM

Hey Mark,

Can you tell me where to get some of that high performance film for my engine? And where should I get a rat that eats plug wires? I need some serious performance mods, so I figured I'd start with those.

TJ

**Yukon Jack** · 07-03-2002, 11:44 AM

68 Stepside - I can get you some of the stuff for your engine, just drop by and we can scrape some from my engine and transplant it to yours. Luckily, my engine will regenerate this stuff ather quickly! However, I'm afraid the rat modifications were done during the prior owner's time with the truck. Maybe someone has a spare goat that could be used to make similar mods.

Glad for all the input on the distributor coming out. I'm kinda thinking about slapping on a new intake and carb since my plans for a new engine are years down the road. Like everyone says in the other posts about the 307's, all that stuff will transfer to a new engine and it would be fun to at least put a little life back into this engine. Heck, with the little itty bitty carb that is on it now (I think it's a one barrel) those changes, along with HEI, will probably be pretty noticable.

Blue68 · 07-03-2002, 01:35 PM

Here's mine in a '98 350. Worked fine in my 307 as well. Get the engine to TDC first. And realize you will proabably have to set the distributer one tooth counter-clockwise in order to get the vacuum canister to clear the intake runner. Besides, it makes the cap look straighter.

junkyardjohn · 07-03-2002, 02:28 PM

Quote:

A full size HEI won't fit with out some hammer massaging.

MINE SURE DID IN SEVERAL TRUCKS. PUT DOWN THE SLEDGHAMMER. STEP AWAY FROM THE HAMMER. YOU CAN PICK UP A GOOD USED GM HEI OUT OF ANY V-8 CHEVY AT YOUR LOCAL BONE YARD FOR ABOUT $30

**Yukon Jack** · 07-03-2002, 03:20 PM

While at the junk yard, is there an easy way to know if you are looking at a bad one?

Blue68 · 07-03-2002, 04:31 PM

Try to turn it so it will advance. I got a salvage one (used it for a core) that it was rusted so it wouldn't turn for the advance. Pull it and take a look at the gear teeth and check for excess slop. You are going to replace the cap and rotor anyway so don't worry about those items. Other than the visual/physical, there isn't any way to know if the rest is in good shape .

07-02-2002, 05:06 PM	#1
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	Pulling distributor I'm considering pulling the old distributor and replacing it with an HEI unit. My spark plug wires are chewed up by rats and it's time to replace them anyway. When I was looking at my engine this morning it doesn't look like the distributor could be pulled up and out without hitting the firewall above the distributor. My engine is a 307 and it is in my 4x4. This pic doesn't show the potential problem too well, but maybe you can see the problem. Anyone have a similar problem? If so, what was your solution? __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

07-02-2002, 05:09 PM	#2
chevy2racr So Many Ideas, So Little Money Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Marshalltown, IA Posts: 1,610	I was able to pull my HEI on my 327 I pulled the cap first, then the dist. try that if it won't come wiht the cap on Bryce __________________ 72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu Marshalltown, Iowa

07-02-2002, 05:18 PM	#3
johnnyp Keepin' It Stock Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Grand Island, Nebraska, USA Posts: 554	If you can't get it out, you might consider going with the PerTronix Ignitor __________________ 72 Sierra Grande - Maych Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time. Last edited by johnnyp; 07-02-2002 at 05:20 PM.

07-02-2002, 05:19 PM	#4
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Have you got the HEI yet? I got mine off of a wrecked Trans Am that had just been pulled into the local bone yard, so it's worth a try. You know I'm mechanically challenged, so I had a mechanic friend help with the changeover. Jason has probably done a couple. Did you get your tranny changed yet? I will PM you another question I want to ask you, off topic, so no need to put it on here. Let me know if you need some help. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

07-02-2002, 07:15 PM	#5
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,425	IT'LL COME OUT. HONEST . ALTHOUGH IT DOESN'T HAVE ALOT OF EXTRA ROOM, & YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE CAP FIRST, IT WILL COME OUT. __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

07-02-2002, 08:46 PM	#6
68 Stepside huh? Join Date: May 2000 Location: Washington, Illinois Posts: 5,690	Being a 4x4, the engine sits in the rear motor mount position. So it will be an extremely tight fit. But if you take your old one out (be sure to mark the rotor location), and take the cap off of the HEI, it should drop in. Mine does, and my 406 is sitting in the rearward frame holes. TJ __________________ Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay

07-02-2002, 08:58 PM	#7
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	My 350 is in the 6 location and the hei fits, it's close, about the thickness of my finger between the cap and firewall. Both distributors will slip out and in. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

07-03-2002, 08:52 AM	#9
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,425	I'VE HAD THREE OF THESE TRUCKS THAT WERE 4WD, & THE MOTOPS ON ALL OF THEM SAT IN THE REAR FRAME HOLES. (6 CYL. LOCATION ON 2WDs) I THINK THAT MUST BE WHY THEY HAVE SUCH A BIG INDENTION, IN THE FIREWALL, & THE FAN SHROUDS ARE QUITE A BIT LONGER. __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

07-03-2002, 08:56 AM	#10
RodC Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fairmont WV Posts: 304	I have the PerTronix Ignitor. Works great and retains the stock appearance. __________________ Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside

07-03-2002, 09:16 AM	#11
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	Glad to hear it ought to come out. I don't really know how long the distributor is but it just looked really tight. Here are a couple more pics that show the clearance issue better. BTW - The stuff that looks like a film of grease and goo on various parts of the engine is actually a high performance mixture that will take nearly 2 seconds off your 1/4 mile times. Its good stuff but highly confidential - for that reason, please do not download these pictures and post on Ford boards. The rat chew marks on the spark plug wires are also intentional - serious performance gains if placed in just the right position. :p __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

07-03-2002, 09:17 AM	#12
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,727	Mark, It will come out. It looks tight, but once you pull the cap and rotor, out it comes. A full size HEI won't fit with out some hammer massaging. I wasn't willing to go that route so my solution was an MSD ready-to-run billet distributor. Comes with cap and rotor for $240 or so. While more expensive than buying an aftermarket GM HEI, and WAY more expensive than the junkyard route, it is the more elegant way to go. Get yourself a Blaster II coil while you're at it for another $30. It will really make your truck start and drive better. For all you 2 wheel drive guys, the 4x4 engine placement is similar to mounting a V8 on 6 cylinder stands. The distributor is about 1" from the firewall, actually inside the recess. This was done in order to keep a reasonable length on the front driveshaft and is also what makes swapping a big block into a 67-72 a Royal PITA. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

07-03-2002, 11:22 AM	#13
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,766	I have HEIs in 3 of the four 4X4s I have.. The fourth doesn't have an engine installed yet, but it will have one when it is..... 1 is a 72 K-5 with a BB 402 in the 6 cylender possition... I had to massage the firewall where the valve covers are but that was it. 1 is a 72 SWB 4X4 with 350/4 speed, and the last one is a 72 3/4ton 4X4 with T-350... No problems with clearense on any of them..... If you have your truck lifted so much that the engine, transmission, and transfer case have to be tilted to help with the driveline angles then you will have a problem, otherwise you shouldn't. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

07-03-2002, 11:44 AM	#15
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	68 Stepside - I can get you some of the stuff for your engine, just drop by and we can scrape some from my engine and transplant it to yours. Luckily, my engine will regenerate this stuff ather quickly! However, I'm afraid the rat modifications were done during the prior owner's time with the truck. Maybe someone has a spare goat that could be used to make similar mods. Glad for all the input on the distributor coming out. I'm kinda thinking about slapping on a new intake and carb since my plans for a new engine are years down the road. Like everyone says in the other posts about the 307's, all that stuff will transfer to a new engine and it would be fun to at least put a little life back into this engine. Heck, with the little itty bitty carb that is on it now (I think it's a one barrel) those changes, along with HEI, will probably be pretty noticable. __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

07-03-2002, 01:35 PM	#16
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Here's mine in a '98 350. Worked fine in my 307 as well. Get the engine to TDC first. And realize you will proabably have to set the distributer one tooth counter-clockwise in order to get the vacuum canister to clear the intake runner. Besides, it makes the cap look straighter. Attached Images __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

07-03-2002, 03:20 PM	#18
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	While at the junk yard, is there an easy way to know if you are looking at a bad one? __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14



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07-03-2002, 04:31 PM	#19
Blue68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Frisco, Tx, USA Posts: 606	Try to turn it so it will advance. I got a salvage one (used it for a core) that it was rusted so it wouldn't turn for the advance. Pull it and take a look at the gear teeth and check for excess slop. You are going to replace the cap and rotor anyway so don't worry about those items. Other than the visual/physical, there isn't any way to know if the rest is in good shape . __________________ http://home.comcast.net/~r.landrum/w...tos.html-.html '68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.

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