Bags and driveshaft endplay - help! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nosto · 07-07-2002, 11:46 AM

After 6 months of bodywork, I'm finally starting to reassemble the truck.

This is the first time I've put the driveshaft back in and at first it wouldn't go in. Then I filled the rear bags and was able to hook the U-joint on the rear. At this point the shaft has about 1/2" endplay. But when I dump the air, the shaft slides forward into the tail of the 4 speed Muncie so there's no noticable endplay left.

QUESTION: What's the minimum endplay (front to back) for the single piece driveshaft?

I CAN slide the motor (350) forward a bit, about 3/8" slop in the motor mounts, but I gotta drill new holes for the (kludged) tranny crossmember. Don't wanna if I don't hafta.

Thanks,

REPO1 · 07-07-2002, 11:49 AM

Personally at the lowest point where it shoves the shaft in, I would try and keep a minimum of 1/2" movement in the shaft.

Why not figure out exactly how much you have, then have you driveshaft shortened a bit if the need be.

07-07-2002, 11:46 AM	#1
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Bags and driveshaft endplay - help! After 6 months of bodywork, I'm finally starting to reassemble the truck. This is the first time I've put the driveshaft back in and at first it wouldn't go in. Then I filled the rear bags and was able to hook the U-joint on the rear. At this point the shaft has about 1/2" endplay. But when I dump the air, the shaft slides forward into the tail of the 4 speed Muncie so there's no noticable endplay left. QUESTION: What's the minimum endplay (front to back) for the single piece driveshaft? I CAN slide the motor (350) forward a bit, about 3/8" slop in the motor mounts, but I gotta drill new holes for the (kludged) tranny crossmember. Don't wanna if I don't hafta. Thanks, __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

07-07-2002, 11:49 AM	#2
REPO1 Shortbox wanna-be. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 773	Personally at the lowest point where it shoves the shaft in, I would try and keep a minimum of 1/2" movement in the shaft. Why not figure out exactly how much you have, then have you driveshaft shortened a bit if the need be. __________________ 1970 Chevy C20 Custom Camper 402BB Turbo 400 trans. (Slowly becoming a '70 shortbox 1/2 ton) '71 Camaro SS 402/T400 resto '97 Z28 (11.41@127MPH)

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