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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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Turn signal lever
Mine is broken How hard is it to change I have a steering wheel puller but have never used it I have a grant wheel on it now. Anyone have any pointers before I tear into it?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#2 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,737
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just make sure you tighten the outside bolts of your puller the same amount, before you try to remove it by tightening the center one. This will ensure that the wheel will come off straight and not get crooked and bind up. It’s similar to removing any type off pulley.
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Claysburg, Pa
Posts: 408
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If you have tilt you might want to have a lock plate tool handy. Unhook your battery or your horn will drive ya nuts till you get it done from grounding out lol
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
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I do have tilt what is a lock plate tool and what do I need to do with it? The horn is hooked to a switch on the lower dash so no problem there.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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Can anyone tell me what don means by a lock plate tool? And what I would use it for?
Thanks
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#6 |
Registered User
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Location: Sacramento
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Similar to this. It is to apply pressure to the lock plate so that you can remove the clip.
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#7 |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Most auto parts stores loan them out. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for less than $10, but have not yet worked up the courage to take the column apart. I need to replace my steering wheel, turn signalswitch, turn signal lever, the ignition switch (well, the part the key fits into...), and the wiper delay module. Maybe over Christmas when I get almost a week off.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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Will I need it to replace the turn signal lever?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
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I have looked every where and can not find on in harbor freight does anyone know what it is called? It must not be lock plate remover when I say that everyone looks at me like Im retarded.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Claysburg, Pa
Posts: 408
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advance auto its called a steering wheel plate remover made by powerbuilt tools part number 648466 I just looked it up there.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
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Thanks
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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There is also a retainer ring inside. Once you compress that plate there is a ring you need to remove. This ring is supposed to be replaced each time it is removed, for safety purposes. The ring from the dealer is almost $5. I am sure you can get the same ring for cheaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Just make sure it is the right size.
The entire turn signal switch assembly for my truck is about $45.00 from the dealer. If the "cam" inside is cracked or broken then you can replace just that piece. It can be found in the "Help" section at Check/Autozone. I noticed that the plastic cam gets baked in the sun and then brakes easily when trying to signal right turns. I purchased a felt washer from Lowes and put it around the turn signal lever on the inside of the column. Looks fairly clean and covers the hole to help keep it clean and away from sun light. The dealer told me that there is not supposed to be a boot or anything there, but it sure looks like it. To get the turn signal switch assembly out of the column you will need to remove the hazard knob and kind of tilt the switch assembly so the hazard part can be brought into the column. Wires run from this turn signal switch assembly inside the column and down through the column. You will need to remove the plastic bezel peice under the column and the steel part of the dash there too. There will be a long plug with many wires heading up towards the steering wheel. You need to unplug this to feed the wires up through the column to remove the entire switch assembly. You will also most likely need a special tool to remove the Grant steering wheel hub. You can use a bearing puller, gear puller, hub puller or even adjustable pit man arm puller. If the hub threads are in good shape you can use a harmonic balancer puller to remove the hub. When reinstalling the steering wheel bolts into this hub be careful and its not very strong and can be stripped easily. If I remember correctly is may be an aluminum hub. Here is a picture of the adjustable pit man arm remover: ![]() Here is a picture of the steering wheel plate remover: ![]() Grants puller: ![]()
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * Last edited by PHOENIX; 01-10-2005 at 05:01 PM. |
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#13 |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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I replaced all the stuff in mine over Christmas. It was not as difficult as I expected. If you have any questions, PM me. I might see if you ask in this thread, or I might not.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
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I really only want to replace the turn signal lever not the switch I have a new billit one but will look at the switch for breakage. With that grant puller I will be able to pull the grant wheel right?
Thanks for your help.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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The wheel comes off easily. The wheel bolts to the hub. The hub has splines on the inside. The hub needs a puller to be removed.
Remove the steering wheel bolts (5 on most grants). Remove the (3) inner steering wheel bolts (holds wheel bracket to hub). Remove the large nut. Remove the hub. Once the hub is removed you use a flat screw driver to remove the plastic guard. Stick the flat tip in the outside slots and push outwards in two of the three locations and the plastic guard should come off. You now use the steering wheel plate remover tool to compress the plate. While the tool is holding the plate compressed, remove the retainer ring in the center. Try not to damage this ring if you plan to reuse it. Once the ring is removed you can back off the plate remover tool and the plate can be removed. You should now be looking at the turn signal switch assembly. The turn signal lever is held with one screw and it very easy to remove.
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * Last edited by PHOENIX; 01-10-2005 at 06:33 PM. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
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the plastic piece that you talk about being cracked is it the piece you can see from the outside of column? mine looks cracked right were the lever bolts to it. If it is can it be replaced with out removing the switch?
My grant has only three bolts and the main center bolt holding the wheel and the metal cover thing to the hub. also the picture of that grant puller you posted will it be enuf to pull the hub and reinstall it? Or should I just break down and get a puller that I can use on it and balancers and stuff? Sorry to pester you just want to be ready before I pull it all out. Thanks
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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I used an adjustable pit man arm puller to remove mine, because the 3 holes for the wheel to bolt to where damaged. You do not need anything special to reinstall it. I am not 100% sure you will need the puller. When I replaced the plastic cam a few weeks ago I had to use the puller, but I could have sworn the time before I was able to remove the hub by hand. I never used that Grant puller, but it would work just fine, unless your hub threads are damaged, then you have to use something like that pit man puller above. I would recommend you get a good puller set. It comes in handy for a lot of things. If you have another vehicle tear into your truck and see if you can pull the hub off by hand. If you can not then go buy a tool. You can buy the tool from Checker, use it, put it back in the package and return it. If they ask say you never used it. You already had one and didnt realize it.
Yes the plastic piece that gets cracked is white and can be seen if you look into the column where the turn signal knob goes in. I can not remember exactly right now, but I am pretty sure you need get to the backside of the cam parts to take the front piece off. You may need to at least undo that plug for the switch assembly and slide the switch assembly out of the column enough to get to the back side of that plastic cam assembly. There is a couple screws and some little plastic clips that hold the two pieces together. As long as you have the tool to compress that plate and a tool to remove the hub if required its a pretty simple job. Edit: The more I think about it the more I think you need to remove the switch assembly to get access to the parts to change the broken piece out. Its really not much more work to remove the entire switch assembly. Just be carefull when pulling the wires through the column, you do not want to cut any of those wires. If you do cut a wire you can put a piece of tape on them, there really isnt anything for them to come in contact with in the column where they rest. The large nut inside can vibrate loose after awhile. A small dab of loctite will help it from working loose and having to tighten it again. But make sure you only do a little dab, I know a guy who used too much and it soaked down into the hub splines and made the hub even harded to remove.
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * Last edited by PHOENIX; 01-11-2005 at 04:45 PM. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: St robert Mo
Posts: 2,001
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Hey PHOENIX just curious if that little plastic peice is broke what about the turn signal does not work right? Because mine works fine I just need to replace the lever but it seems to work fine otherwise.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
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#19 |
BAD BOW-Silverado XST
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